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First problem is that your upper stud brackets are upside down. The stud should be in the center of the air duct. Then put the small green symmetrical feet in the middle and the black feet on the bottom. Once you fix that upper stud problem the rest will line up right and be level .

Can you provide a link or part numbers to the clamps you used? I need to make a couple to supplement the one mine has. Thanks!

Take a grinder to that outer clamp ring of the dead pump and separate the halves. See why it failed. I have had ones where the diaphragm has lost its rubber membrane leaving the reinforcing mesh, ones that just had the diaphragm split, and lately ones that had the lift rod pull through the...

dug out my cargo top and got it spiffed up and installed

Looking at the possible pitting that was in that lower valve housing I would be suspect of its sealing abilities. Did you send yours out for rebuild or did you buy a rebuilt unit? Those valve housings see some horrific corrosion problems even if the rest of the IP is pristine. Who did the work...

Sure sounds like a start box to me. Have you removed all the silicone globs that are covering all the cables and wiring connectors and cleaned all said connections? Under all that silicone is corrosion

Id get in there with a mirror to make sure where it actually coming from. Maybe just a loose injector pipe. Also...who did the rebuild?

You might have to twist and push it back. It may have come out of the transfer case drive. There is a kind of nylon socket on the speedo end that can get "dislocated" and stick out too far.

heres the hardware store version ive used

yes.

Some, like mine, went straight to storage after rebuild and dont have a UIC number

Add a signature line to your profile that has the year/model number of your truck. The part numbers can be found in the -24P TMs This is out of the earlier truck manual

Shifter assembly is simple as well. These pics are from my M998 when I was adding reverse light switch. 4 speed shifter is basically the same.

You dont need to jack it up. You do need a helper though. There is plenty of ground clearance to slide underneath. CHOCK YOUR WHEELS! Helper in the cab to hold/turn the 4 screws that attach the shifter assembly. Remove the two cotter pins to detach the shift linkages. Disconnect the...

Your location was where the original electric valve was. Fine spot for the actuating wire to reach it but not ideal if you were going to use the cable actuated unit. Then you would need to mount it as in my pics. Your placement is probably best for using the manual handle you went with.

Adjustment is done while the cable knob is pushed in. Slide cable sheath to the left till the arm hits the lower side of the stop. Tighten clamp. Now when you pull the heat knob out it will open the water valve till it hits the upper side of the stop. Notice the "OFF" and "ON" lettering on this...

That valve should be turned 180 degrees and mounted on the heater side of that elbow to be oriented properly and to accept the cable correctly. The coolant to the valve/heater should be coming from the crossover assembly (that has the thermostat housing). The coolant from the heater returns to...

I have my original metal cable actuated valve and kept it while I retrofitted my truck to the latest AC system. Just got it charged up today and it blows cold. I checked the valve visually before reinstalling it and after installing it I function tested it to see if it fully blocked hot water...

Yeah almost as important as the fluid changes is removing the shifter assembly completely and emptying that bag full of dirt that surrounds it. Never seen one that wasnt nastier than a shopvac. While its out on your bench you should be able to find the reason for your problem. If you are...