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I read somewhere that those fans/motors are unobtainium. Guy got ahold of the manufacturer and they said they are only available as the condenser assembly. sounds crazy but I filed that fact away in my memory

When you take yours out and look inside you will see a crumbly mess and gain understanding. Had a guy with 60+ humvees to his credit show me a recently removed valve and it enlightened me. I went and replaced the one in the unit I was futzing with and sure enough with that ball valve shut I had...

There is a tensioner on the passenger side below the A/C compressor. It has a square hole in it for a ratchet to lever it down to release the belt

I just replaced one recently with a small brass ball valve and brass barb adapters from home deeps. The originals seem to all be deteriorated or problematic in some fashion.

Fuel Check valves that can be removed

My guess is to access some nut thats behind there. Mine had that whole panel removed and replaced with a shop fabricated piece pop riveted in place. I then hole sawed a one inch hole to add a door hinge nut where they drilled a nutsert out for armored doors

It seems to me that there was a Marine Corp wide program to schmutz over all electrical connections with RTV to prevent corrosion.

You talking about this stuff? Its just gobs of Clear RTV

Plug the FTS into 458a and 458d and it should function as intended. Personally i would leave the manual override switch inline as a convenient bypass for manual activation

Heres a look inside...

My guess on how your might be formatted would be 120IN 30BCT B (XXX) As far as the requirement for a registration number in TX...I would imagine the six digit serial(VIN) from the data plate on the title and the stenciled registration number in the footwell for a "license plate" number?

I think hes talking about recreating the unit ID markings and you guys are thinking he means serial/registration numbers. When I was researching my M998 army reserve truck it seemed that there wasnt an army wide standard but more of a unit/commandwide guideline so that all the trucks were the...

Post a pic of the pigtail end of your new trans light. I just looked under my M1123 and my trans light has two wires going into this single (polarized) plug. Best I can tell it goes forward into the harness with the arrow.

Finally got some fresh info for you on this. I believe you ARE missing part number 17. What your pic is showing is the machined aluminum pad that hold the bottom of that geared shaft in place like a plain thrust bearing surface. Pics show part 17 as it falls loose when removing the housing. You...

Agreed. Thats why I said it sounds good on paper. I would love to change out all the fluid...but...what I've been hearing from a few different professional sources is that power flushing seemed to be moving undesirable particles from nooks and crannies in the torque converters and coolers and...

There is also this relay inside the rear evaporator unit. Im not sure if it powers the condenser fans or just the evap blower. This is where I'm stuck on the system I'm working on. My condenser fans stay running after shutting the system and the truck off till I unplug the cannon plug to the...

The "relays" behind the battery box are actually circuit breakers that self reset when they cool down. I believe the relay by the dryer powers both condensers. Double check your connections by number tag.

Try the next size bigger 8pk2910 or dayco 5081145. if that seem too loose then put the smaller one back on.