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If you find some for sale make sure its a LH and RH. They are on average $200 each. First set i bought had two RH! I didnt find a LH for two years.
They usually have the part numbers and L and R stamped on them
4pcs White LED BA9S *Reverse Polarity* bayonet bulbs | eBay
Something about how the indicator flasher works in the turn signal circuit in opposition to flashing signal. An incandescent bulb works regardless of polarity. LEDs tend to be polarity sensitive and wont work in the hmmwv lever...
Yours should have had a self-cancelling type lever assembly.
There is an LED bulb for the indicator that is much brighter. It needs to be a special BA9S reverse polarity bulb in order to work though.
Thats just a scannable inventory type tag. It has your unit's serial number.
My rebuilt unit came with two actual dog tags with the truck's USMC hood number embossed into it. One was on the drivers front frame rail behind the bumper and the other was hanging from the steering column adjuster slot
From what I see you look to have a nice original unrebuilt 2003 M1123. The brake pedals seemed to get sprayed green during rebuild. 03 tires with ink still present. All fasteners clean and not caked with paint . No hint of dirt or mud in any cracks or crevices. Everything points to low mileage...
Assuming you have the M1151...The tach harness is plug and play...all you need to do is modify the connector on the generator voltage regulator AC tap(2A). Cut the ring connector off and install a packard (military) style connector to accept the 2B wire from the tach harness. The tach harness 2C...
How did he determine this? During fluid change?
If you have the liquid cooled rear diff I believe that the transfer case is also cooled with engine coolant as well. Older models were cooled with transmission fluid. There is a "cooling loop" in the transfer case that has been known to crack...
Im voting for lift pump. Ive had numerous lift pumps leaking externally at the seam upon arrival from gov planet. Ive also had trucks that had the same symptoms you described with good flow at idle but would starve for fuel while driving. Good flow at drain valve while idling but weak flow...
It was originally 10-32 phillips head screws into rubber wellnuts. Many have wollered out since new and you have to improvise with 1/4-20 nutserts/wellnuts. whatever now fits
You can remove the seat portion and just run the backs. The backs only have two boards but you can take the seat slats and cut them down to fit in the empty spaces.
Are you saying you cant break the glow plug loose from being fully tight? or were you able to loosen it and it just wont come out of the hole?
The extractor tool is for when the glow plug is fully unscrewed but the tip is swollen and wont slide out of the head.
If you cant crack the glow plug...
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