Search results

I wasn't talking about "replacing" parts but actually "testing" the system like many here said to do. A simple flow test would have uncovered a problem. Then it would have just been a simple matter of going through the fuel lines until the problem was found. That is all.

Glad you found the problem. This is an important lesson to learn when working on any vehicle. Start at one item first ie: fuel lines. Once you are sure that is fixed then proceed to the next item. You do not jump from one item to another trying to fix a problem. If a proper fuel flow test had...

Now that "drifting" looks like a lot of fun !

Any updates on this failure ?

The fuel line size will make no difference here. The only way it would is if you're going to a "smaller" size. It's a matter of "flow" . In my crud drawing you can see the pump is exiting at a given size and the carburetor has a given size for entry. As long as the fuel line is not smaller...

OK. Lets regroup here for a moment. You have replaced the points and condenser, checked the electrical system for spark leaks and are now checking the fuel system. You replaced the fuel filter and rebuilt the carburetor. When you rebuilt the carburetor did you replace the governor diaphragm and...

Was the large Torus nut loose ? Looks like something went through the vanes like a crank flywheel bolt or the Torus nut. Can you verify if the input shaft has the "steel bushing" on it ? I cannot tell from your picture.

OK. First off you need to determine if your ignition system is working properly. That means your points, condenser, cap and rotor, spark plugs and cables. Once they have been fully checked out, you then can go and check the fuel system. No more jumping around. That gets you nowhere fast. You...

I have a spare carburetor I can take pictures of as I tear it down to show you how to rebuild it. Will that help you ?

You say you rebuilt the carb ? That opens up a whole new can of worms. Did you replace the "piston" thingy (accelerator pump) that squirts fuel into the manifold ? There is usually a small check valve at the bottom of the bore (ball bearing usually) . Also you mention the idle adjusting screws...

Agree !

Are you saying you have 24volts going to the points and condenser ?

deleted

Put in the new points and condenser. Then let us know how it runs.

Agree with "williamh" about the condenser. When I was a young man all gasoline vehicles had "points and condensers" . No such thing as HEI or any electronic ignition. One major "give away" in your statement was the engine would fire back up after stopping. The condensers job is to "absorb" the...

Well I finally finished tearing down all the HydraMatic transmissions. I took a picture of all the cases and parts I had to throw away. Really sad to look at.

Yes. This problem can be real serious. Hopefully adjusting the "modulator" will fix it. If not than you will need to get back into the transmission. Sadly, a lot of repair shops do not change out all the seals in a rebuild. I never used the "nylon" seals in a TH400. They were never meant to be...

There is an adjustment on the "Modulator" . Take off the vacuum line and you will see a small "straight" slot for a screwdriver. Turn this in or out to fine tune your shift point. The modulator is the transmissions way of knowing how much throttle you're using. So if your pressing down hard on...

Got another question today about the front and rear clutch pack plates. I guess I never answered it, something else I forgot. Anyway, there was two types of steel plates and two types of fiber plates. Waved and flat. The wave plates came from the civilian market and where initially used in the...

I was asked a question today about where I get my "new" clutch plates from. The answer is from private collections. "Fatsco" still has some "fiber" plates around but they want almost $10.00 a plate. They cannot get new fiber or steel plates either. So when their stock is gone, it's gone. I have...