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Some white smoke at startup is not uncommon on these machines. As long as it clears up within a minute or less I would not worry about it right now. It could be 1 bad glow plug out of the 4. As for the start switch knob, I have a few damaged control panels and covers, I can check if I have a...

I just took a quick look as well, I don't see anything in the engine TM's as far as procedure , special tools or acceptable readings for compression. All I found was "check for leaking valves" and "check for leaking head gasket" Essentially you need to remove the injector and find / fabricate an...

I doubt the Harbor freight Diesel compression tester will work for you right out of the box. I'd be very surprised if it comes with an appropriate adapter to go in place of the Yanmar injector.

As far as pressure at the pump inlet you only need about 5 -10 psi max. After you verify pump flow, you can try to narrow it down further by making it act up again, then as it starts to die down, manually lift up on the linkage at the injection pump. If lifting it up slightly brings the RPM's...

I bought one of the JQ Power mini skid steers out of NJ. figured I'd try it for little projects where the backhoe and excavator would make a mess. It's ok, but kind of poor build quality. the track design sucks, keeps throwing the tracks every time you turn wrong. I tried modifying the...

Something else that I personally aren't all that pleased with is that now RB sells private owner items ( mostly vehicles ) I've seen one in particular with starting prices of $32,000 for a junk pickup worth maybe $6000, running it over and over again, still with no bids. Not sure if the owner...

My 2cents You said you can't pull start without using the decompression lever, that would point towards the compression and valve sealing being at least "acceptable" I personally have never seen a diesel have this type of issue due to a missing or leaking copper washer. You will loose a very...

I hear you! my last purchase I spent over a week trying to get my tax cert renewed. Eventually I had to pay full price, including the tax on the last day and then work several more days to get it renewed. Eventually it got fixed and they credited back the taxes I paid, but that took another 15...

In addition to the buyer's fees, don't forget tax and the 3% credit card fee. By the time you're done it's another 25% over bid price, plus transportation.

Way back years ago, someone had posted a thread warning about this exact wire chaffing condition particularly on Tier2 reset machines. The issue, if I recall was that many Tier2 machines were reassembled with the output wires from the K1 to terminal lugs incorrectly routed, causing them to rub...

I'd check the wires going from the K1 contactor to the power lugs. They typically touch the body of the generator is several places ( need to remove the top cover on the front part. Lightening may have burnt one of the main power wires, causing your short to ground. You can also use an ohm meter...

Keep in mind there are at least 4 different styles of "switches" used on the power plant trailers. A simple transfer switch ( no synchronization at all ) on the older 002/003 units on the m103A trailers. An analog synchronizer with bulbs to synchronize 2 sets before switching the load ( not for...

I just wanted to take a second to wish all the fantastic SS members here on the best on line military equipment forum, a very Merry Christmas, be safe and enjoy the Holidays! Keep the lights on! (y)

I give you a lot of credit for doing that 10* weather! I've done it a couple times on 003's and 802's during the summer and it sucked bad enough when it was warm enough to feel your fingers.... never mind below freezing!

Verify the float assembly with a multimeter while you're in there. check both pairs of wires, aux fuel switch and the low fuel switch.

I am concerned because it worked one day and gone the next. Almost everything in this world does this.... it works until one day it don't! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Kurt's VR will get you going again and not have the known reliability issues associated with the OEM VR.

You're jumping to the conclusion that the float assembly is bad before testing it to verify. It's a simple switch mechanism, I'd suggest you use a multimeter and check continuity on the 2 wires for the lower float. The issue could be with the float control module rather than the float itself...

Out of curiosity, what have you done to test the existing dual float assy? The problem could be as simple as a stuck float or a bad component on the float control module.

Indeed, several people have had this same problem. The results of the AC voltage regulator test will tell us where your issue lies. You can also search this forum and read other people's stories with similar issues, including most recently...