Search results

I have no experience with them but Plan B sells an aluminum top without the curtain for $2000, but you don’t need the C Pillar. Soft tops can sell for that price I would bet. Factor in the cost of the C pillar and it may be the same or even cheaper to buy the aluminum top...

Ahh ok. I’ll have to find some slack in the line - it doesn’t seem to reach

Is this hose and tube part of the crankcase breather, feeding back into the air intake??

I did pull the lenses and clean them and make sure both were working. I did not know to clean the light windows in the gauges themselves. I will take a look at that. So with those you’ve found the gauges to be much brighter??

I currently have green gauge lights that are super dull at night. I don’t think my “bright” setting works as it’s as equally dim on either setting. Are there brighter bulb options out there? Would white bulbs be brighter?

Durabak-18 smooth

Did they produce tunnel insulation in multiple colors for the 4 man trucks? I feel like I’ve seen black and tan, in addition to the typical green. I found one tan piece on eBay but I don’t recognize the pattern. I guess someone could have painted them, but did any come that way from AM...

So I got everything hooked up and running tonight. This Orion unit has a variable output, instructions say max is 15v, but my harbor freight volt meter says 16+v. I think the window motors would do fine on 15-16v but would a radio/stereo tolerate it?

I’m curious - how difficult is it to remove and replace the windshield and gasket? Do they get fused in there? I’m debating removing my windshields for painting rather than taping them off. And I’ll replace the gaskets because they are covered in old paint too.

I have a good set of paired 24 bolt rims with the old tires and run flats. I’m not sure if I’d want to separate and be left with only 3, but can I ask what you paid per wheel?

Ha never mind. I just hooked them up to 24v to see what would happen. While they had TONS of power- sparks fly when they get all the way up and you keep the switch held down. Oh well.

My wiring harness must have been defective, two wires were touching where the shielding had fused together, I pulled those apart and that problem is solved- seller sending me a new harness. The glass is laminated glass and quite heavy, at least a 1/4” thick. I probably should have gotten...

They are new. It’s a generic/custom window regulators and wiring harness. Both are fairly idiot proof as far as the wiring goes https://www.ebay.com/itm/284416659858 https://www.ebay.com/itm/142247866707

So yes my ground goes to that bare on the battery box where all the other grounds are. Just to eliminate that being the cause I used some jumper cables was to my my f150 battery. Tested at 12v. Trying to get one window to move I fried a 30 amp fuse- which one motor I don’t think should pull...

I’ve figured out the 12v wiring. But on 12v the motors have no balls and can’t lift or even lower the glass. So I need more power at the motors, or something else will have to change

Out of curiosity- what would happen if powered my window motors with 24v ??? I read that motors can overheat if run on a higher voltage, but with windows I don’t really see that being an issue?

How have these doors held up? Are they water tight? Door water come in around the seals and the windows?

Found it! Thanks. I think the wire is 16 gauge? The insulation on these humvees is thicker than normal wire so it’s hard to tell

Well, I was digging around looking for 29T and didn’t find it. I found 29 A B and C behind the battery box. I re-checked the schematic and I Pathan’s I should have been looking underneath down by the steering column? I’ve had trouble finding the transmission relay and had thought it was behind...

Posting this for future readers doing this project: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/help-with-victron-orion-24-12-converter-please.47648/ Recommends 8 gauge wire and 50 amp fuse on line feeding the Orion unit