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My pig wears only the finest lipstick.

Magnet couldn't get it. Just received a practical demonstration of a tiny surgical needle gun. Basically had to grind the surface off my eyeball to get the iron and rust out. Not my best Friday night. Wear your PPE.

As far as I know, DB2829-4267 is OEM for all 6.2L NA CUCVs. DB2829-4879 is what's available brand new off the shelf. They'll tell you it's good for the CUCV, but I've spent the past year screwing around with fuel and timing and airflow to get it to quit belching unburnt diesel out the tailpipes...

Oh, and just a reminder: It's a lot easier to put on safety glasses than it is to go magnet fishing in your eye.

I expected I might not be able to see where it was rubbing, so I had planned to paint the inside of the cover, slap it on dry with a couple bolts, and spin it a few times, but that was not necessary. The hardened gears were just lathing this thing out of the way. I was irritated with how...

Sorry for the crap quality photo, but the OE center bore looks to be exactly 3.5" to me.

Same offset as civilian K5. Rally sports and old school off-road wagon wheels fit. The ones with the triangle holes. Dunno why you have TP45 stenciled on your fenders, but I find 30 PSI makes a comfortable ride and 35 is good for highway miles.

They were too preoccupied with making clearance for rocks on the trail to leave enough room for my sloppy tolerances. The right thing to do would be to rebuild the diff, but since that's not in my wheelhouse, I'll just have to introduce the cover to a grinder. That's what ARB recommends in this...

Got a decel rumble grumble. Gonna have to open this thing back up, figure out where the diff cover is rubbing, and clearance it. This is the kind of finnicky crap I expect from hodgepodge modifications built out of junk, not expensive aftermarket parts. That's a strike against ARB's permanent...

I was pretty skeptical of this drop pan when I bought it, but it was the only one they had at that particular parts house. I must admit I am happy for the engineer of this thing, as he definitely got his revenge, though I'm not sure what I did to earn it. The only way this thing makes sense is...

Check the ID plate on your injection pump. You might have a HMMWV IP on there. That's what's on my M1009 and I had to turn the timing way up to stop it smoking.

Discovered the best performance mod yet. Removed the resident half ton of junk from the bed. It only happened once, but it did chirp the tires in second after I stopped using the truck for a storage shed.

Now if you really wanted to challenge Royal Purple, the tac I would take is, "See you when you come crying about how it was too slick for your hub seals." I understand that to be a gamble and I'm choosing to take it. The good news is the fancy pants diff gasket is reusable.

I don't care about their claims. I've never read them. What I have done is drive cross country several times with a scan tool plugged into my Toyota while I towed triple the rated capacity and Royal Purple engine oil had my average temperature down by close to 20 degrees over Rotella. It's slick...

You jest, but in truth, I'm putting Royal Purple in it this time. It will measurably improve my MPGs, but I won't notice because I don't pay attention. I know all the shiny crap I put on this truck is lowering the resale value, but that's a problem for whoever nabs it when I'm gone.

Been collecting stuff since I noticed the drip. Nice, bright diff cover to keep company with my nice, bright suspension bushings. Somebody bought it for a Dana and it didn't fit. Their loss, my gain. Looking at this brings a thought to mind. I always seal inboard of the fasteners so oil can't...

There's a hydroboost master cylinder on Rock Auto for five bucks. Somebody should probably go grab that.

Not CUCV specific. On clogged washers, I've always just back flowed the system with a compressed air nozzle. In most every vehicle ever, there's a screen on the washer pump down in the tank that's got a bunch of crud caked up on it.

Yeah, it's OE for the CUCV. The radio it was attached to was so heavy, I could feel the difference when I removed it.

I dunno what they look like on the pickup. I recently replaced the u-bolts on my Blazer and when I didn't know what size to get, I just crawled under there with a HFT micrometer. Here are your options...