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My guess now........ messy fuel tank, not a pump. The "butter fly" valves can break in them but do not have the symptoms you describe. Less trouble to pull the fuel sender and eyeball the tank than replace a pump. Just my 2 cents. Please post a picture of the inside of your tank.

Pull the vent hose off the top of the mech. pump and crank/run the engine, your answer is in what does or doesn't squirt out the vent tube on the top of the pump.

I'M IMPRESSED

Do not try this... put a can of CLEAN fuel in the passenger foot well, run a hose to the mech. pump, carefully tied up so as to not get into the tire. If the truck runs good your problem is south of the pump, if not bad lift pump or injection pump. In my opinion the filter housing needs to be...

Unloaded, all models.......15 and 18.......... ain't that something...................

OK , you need the seal, 6 bolts and special washers. Do not reuse the bolts on the inboard side. Order from one of the industry source 's the bolts, washers and seal. If the mating surface on the shaft is pitied or corroded you can correct that with a speedy sleeve (SKF 99199) . Its a pain to...

Not only do you set the toe on the rear but the "thrust angle" has to be set. The thrust angle just "points" the rear wheels centered with the chassis. The sting will work but not too precise. Instead......... fabricate a short piece of square aluminum tubing to set into the wheel not touching...

I can't help myself.......... they need to be cleaned.......... a 1& 1/2 inch spade bit in an air powered drill will clean them up nicely....................................

Not bad at all. I've seen mine MUCH worse. If you are new to diesels the fuel has some surprises for you, like "stuff" growing in it. Where you live an anti gel additive will be necessary in the winter. The biological stuff can accumulate in the bottom of the filter bowel and cause problems...

Remove the passenger splash guard, insert 3/8 power handle.

Post a picture of your old filter......................... diagnostic purposes.

Try a "tie rod wrench" that looks like a funky letter C. It works in the split at the end of the rod. OTC makes a decent set. I'm not a fan of the "pipe wrench" types.

I would suggest that you also check your transfer case linkage. Just because it says H on top doesn't guarantee its in H in the case. BUT HL should kinda show its self on any pavement. Doesn't hurt to look though. My 2 cents.

First thing I would do is put an eyeball in the fuel tank an see if something is floating around in the fuel.........i9f not start changing the filters..... my 2 cents...

YUP, not a big difference at all. The 5 gear planetaries is the big thing on the 85e. The GTP trans. all have most of the heavier pieces already. BUT, since you have saved me so much money in the past I now have money to spend on the next truck. The 1123, 99.5% stock is gifted to the 4 year old...

I happened upon this information while trying to determine which 1097's that were overhauled in TX got 4l85's but hit a dead end. Some people with 1097's night have trucks with 4l85's but no way to tell without opening it up. FYI

According to the scuttlebut.... R1's between 500000 and 549000 get the 3l80 and those between 570000 and 599000 get a 4l80..... Don't ask I have no idea what happened between 549001 and 569999...... FYI to be taken with a grain of salt.... and it's FREE.

Sometimes better or worse every 4 to 8 years but still AINT NO BETTER!

I would try purging the fluid. Tires off the ground and crank the wheel back and forth while someone eyeballs the fluid in the reservoir. FYI, when purging an empty reservoir and system one crank of the wheel will empty the reservoir. Air trapped in the pressurised fluid is what is boiling...

YUP, that's it. Someone has more technical skills than me, THANKS. I'm going to go out on limb here and guess this is the heart of the problem................. looks like the bracket is also missing. THANKS again.