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Without typing everything in the other thread I will say this. Myself I do not need a gage on the tank or installed on the fuel filter bleed screw. If I turn on just the in tank and I open the bleed screw on the filters and I get fuel under some pressure I go with it and feel the system is...
I still have my engine and the 24 volt starter. Thought I saw a post where there was a match for the starter in 12 volt. Some civilian small import if I remember. Does anyone remember if that is true? Tanks
Being we covered everything in the book that would have never crossed my mind that the fuel control unit assembly was put together wrong. Will have to add this one to the books. Well by now you should have a fuel system that is ready to rock and roll for a long time.
Think the hook would have been OK and just turning it around so hook is facing tow truck. I have done some lift tows and never did it but thought about a shackle on the boom hole and a chain running down to the truck. Just in case the cable broke. Do not know if really needed and I do not know...
Glad you figured it out because too much thinking was making my brain hurt.
So when you had the fuel control unit assembly out you disassembled it?
Yea the correct orientation is in the TM.
Even if timing was off seems like you should still have fuel coming out one of the head ports. Now with that said I am grasping at straws here and taking on water. When you said valve covers were off and both valves were closed you checked timing. Did you watch # 1 intake drop and then close...
This is getting mind blowing. With everything that has been checked it should start. Someone said the tappet cam being worn but I do not know and it would take a lot to wear it out but it can not be ruled out. I posted in a thread where I measured how much the plunger could move by checking...
When I did have the 7155 I would have never put in ATF. Artic conditions the heater in your post I assume was used. In the manual for the 7155 it said to help limber up the oil some was to wait for air pressure to built after first start or if you held air pressure overnight enough to keep the...
Well if the lower end of the IP is working why pay to just have it pulled apart at that price and gaskets changed when the problem could be in the Head. If you checked the fuel control unit assembly for free movement and it is working as it should and going from 7 when off to 4 shut off when...
Sure you are doing it but thought I would ask. Does doing the running gears warm up help at all. That is where after air pressure is built up Trans. in neutral then push in the side panel air control button and do regular truck warm up.
Me still thinking and brain starting to hurt. OK the overflow valve is on the return side of the head. That helps to maintain the fuel pressure that the booster puts out. Easy check remove cap do not loose spring and remove valve. Turn on in tank check for trash and check small hole that is in...
Pinched line start looking and that copper line from primary to rubber IP maybe first. Air maybe rubber hose in tank. I feel its wanting to run so keep going with the adventure.
Last post was long I know. I am not saying you have to drive around bumping the governor on every shift just wondering if the EGT would have come down with rpm increase. Yea if I remember 1850 1950 rpm torque and HP met so to me that is the sweet spot for when we are up to speed and happily...
Well we really don't not have a rack when I think of a rack system even though the TM calls it that. When I think of an older Detroit that has a separate governor tied to a bar and that bar controls each injector. From there we would set the rack adjusting every injector so the same amount of...
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