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Since you are now planning to have propane, you might consider a tankless propane unit like the Marey 5L that I used on my build. I like the fact that its ignition source is 2 D cell batteries. Since my water pump is 12V I can take a hot shower without turning on the generator or the inverter...

Yes just the plain green stuff. The Napa equivalent is "NAF 1GAL" if you want to stick with something from Napa. It looks like it is on sale here, not sure about your location. The multifuel has dry liners so it doesn't technically need the SCA additive since the additive is to prevent...

I had to look that one up on Napa's website. I didn't know Zerex made so many different types of coolant! The specifications for that coolant do call it out as being an OAT Organic Acid Type coolant. OAT are the ones that have tendencies to eat away silicone. I have no personal history with that...

If you're talking about the Zerex G05 coolant, I would be very hesitant to use it on anything as old as the deuce, which likely has some silicone in its gaskets. Despite the manufacturer's claims otherwise, my experience is that it still damages silicone gaskets. I flushed the coolant in my...

Mullaney, please be careful with the parts interchange sheet. That's the thermostat for an NHC250, not an 8.3. The two look quite a bit different, and the best I can tell, the thermostat for the C series is only used on the C series. It is Cummins part number 3913028 (assuming that 3up has the...

I would confirm the head and radiator temps with an IR gun before I went any further if I were in your shoes. These gauges aren't very accurate. If you have the single thermostat version with the external bypass, that type of thermostat can't be removed - it will not force coolant to the...

Since this is a 932A2, unless the CTIS components have been deleted, the wheel valve and its components have to be removed first. Otherwise you will mangle the delicate aluminum fitting that comes out of the hub. This is shown in TM9-2320-272-24-2, task 3-457, rear wheel valve maintenance, but...

You asked about structure below that window. Here is a picture of mine when I had everything torn out. As long as you stay below that 1/4" thick cross bar right below the window, you should be OK. There is no wiring or extra structure in that area. With that being said, the mounts from the van...

I also renewed and now have 2 concurrent memberships. Could you please extend my membership as well? Thanks!

I would like the chance to win some new batteries!

I've seen a few pictures showing where folks have shortened cargo beds, but I thought I would share how I did it. There are many ways to achieve this - this is just how I made a 14 foot cargo bed from an M923A2 fit on my deuce. As you can see, the bed overhang was quite large, and it just...

I did end up doing this, so I thought I would update the forum. My uncle made the spacer rings for me out of Acetal. I was concerned about the strength but it has held up fine and seems dimensionally stable under the loading that this tool sees. Gringeltaube was right about this tool being more...

My M109A3 used that port as the draw tube for the fuel fired heater in the van body.

Hopefully you can replace the water pump and flush the coolant and get by without anything more difficult! If you still have the original style of head gasket, I concur with WillWagner and do not recommend putting the extended life / organic acid type coolant back in. Despite the fact that the...

I bought my M923A2 with the intent to move the van body from my M109A3 onto it. So I had a left over 5 ton cargo bed and a deuce chassis... I intend to shorten the bed to match the frame at some point but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I don't know about being a wealth of knowledge, but what I have learned, I'd be happy to share! These things are fun to build and work with, and you can make what YOU want and not just what a company thinks you should want. Having the extra interior space in a 934 body will be nice for you too...

Thanks, guys! I think you've got me headed down the right path. The 16014 bearings I found were $22 each shipped, but after looking for 6010's from @gringeltaube 's advice I found a set of 2 of those shipped for $17, and they have the rubber seals in them. I think I'll go that route. As far as...

Yes I did try using the bearings in 10wt oil on the spindle with the nut loose when I was repacking bearings, but it still took too much torque to turn. I figured that defeated the purpose of the whole thing. The bearing cups that the truck uses (592A) are 6.000" OD. But that is not a common...

I'm going to attempt to make a 5 ton version of the static balancer that I've seen @peashooter and @gringeltaube make. I don't have any ball bearings laying around, so I'm going to have to buy whatever I need. Any suggestions on a ball bearing size that is small / sensitive enough to work well...

It does appear to have started as a 5 ton bed due to the taller front section, but it has been shortened. Otherwise that last section of the drop side wouldn't be shorter than the rest. Looking at the first side view, the frame ends just past the back axle, but the wheelbase is definitely longer...