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If those dimensions check out OK then YES.....

Hey, glad if it helps! I kind of feel your pain because I did some modelling too, in my much younger years. It's always great when you have access to the real thing - or at least to someone who does....... :wink: Yes, gasser and MF fenders are very different, under the hood. I have many...

1) Before you start with that oil pan: Note that the deep sump continues full width, almost down to the bottom. 2) Front crossmember & motor mounts: I managed to take just a couple pics - before the hornets got too irritated... Then I found some loose parts in the junk pile, which made it...

Why "reinvent the wheel"...? Believe me, if done right, a restored door will open/close like the old fridges; seal fairly well all around; no binding or rattling of the window at any position and cranking it up and down takes just two fingers! Been there - done it, many times. And sure enough...

Front exhaust pipe section (between engine and muffler) is 2-3/4" OD and what follows passed the muffler measures 2-1/2" OD.

I'm not sure - did the fuelers ever come with a winch ?

Distance btw it (EE) and the next one (Z) is 6ft, exactly. The engine block is about 32in long x 13in wide and the oil pan measures 29" x 10" x 5" (rear half) x 9" (front half = deep sump). Its mounting flange is 1.25" wide. There is a 5"x2" hump on the drivers side, which can be seen in this...

I have many of these engines here, so you can have every measurement you want. (just not today - because I will have to dig in the junk pile, to get at least one freed... :wink:) Now, here is something to start with, at least....

Here is an old thread which helped me a lot, when I made mine (almost two decades ago!) A few more details, attached:

They both are basically the same shape/profile as all others. Exception would be that Ø4.0" hole for the winch DS, to the left of the front one.

... So, out comes the mainshaft assy.

That A22 would be crossmember "Z" (#7521803), here: The longitudinal beam T-ed to that crossmember is what supports the transfer case on the drivers side. A bit confusing because there are two styles of it, this one positioned vertically. Pictures, here...

@Jbulach: Looks like yours wants to break off just like the OP's....?🧐

:ditto:

This drawing might help some. Even if it wasn't exactly to scale, it shows the distance from mounting surface to hinge CL to be about 1-7/8" (+/- 1/16")

A bent shift fork would still allow engaging either 2nd or 3rd, no....? For the record: I've worked on dozens of these transmissions, coming from all kind of environments. And I think I've seen every possible condition/ failure/ abuse.... Never found a fork that was bent - yet...

Yes, the top cover needs to come off. Then try to slide 2nd /3rd synchro back and forth, manually. You should be able to engage the clutch collar of the synchro unit into either gear, just by using both hands, no tools. If that doesn't work and the collar is stuck in N, then most likely the two...

According to TM 9-2815-210-34P, Fig. 8 it takes 4 bearing-sleeves #s 10910977, -78, -79 and -80 . They come in a kit with the P/N 5702653 (NSN 3120-00-849-1030) I've no idea where to get those...🤷‍♂️

This post: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/need-to-move-a-tire-from-near-las-vegas-to-cincinnati-or-somewhat-close-thanks.219957/post-2593907

Not sure if you are referring to the centerline of the PTO output shaft? If so, the offset is less than 1/2", actually.