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24 gal/ min at 1800rpm sticks in my head. But i dont have the TM in front of me. Edit: after lookign at TM "26 gpm @ 2450 psi (98 Ipm @ 167 bar) @ 2000 engine rpm" copied from ..224-20-1.

Only one tank you say? Might be a unicorn. Normally the tools are run off of one of the valves behind the cab. I can’t recall which one, but it should be the one with a single solenoid on it, not two. If it’s stuck on or always commanded to be on maybe that’s why the tool reel won’t shut off.

Maybe this saves some searching and some money for someone else. The part numbers for the oft-leaking swivels on the tool hose reel; NSN 4730-01-160-9833 John Deere 99272188 Hanney Reels 9927.8138 or 9927.8139 (depending on o-ring material) Also I found a viton re-seal kit for 1/2 the...

One can connect the two hoses for the hoe on the vehicle side. Its a bit if a wrestling match but doable. If i did it you can too and it’s simpler than building a coupler hose. (Much cheaper too) Depending on where you live (water content etc) I wouldn’t worry an awful lot about the fluid...

As a side note; I recently tuned the throttle linkage in mine. The pedal was bottoming out on the floor before the injection pump was to the full throttle position. While it didn’t double the power or anything, I no longer need to downshift on a hill that used to require it. It’s worth a look. I...

Update;Not that many of you will care if the tachometer works or not, but I went through the troubleshooting steps in the manual and it appears the tach itself is bad. Now the procedure for doing those tests and replacing the tach describe doing so by removing the fuse pannel and the air intake...

Does anyone out there know what it could mean when the tack blips up to about 500 rpm when starting and also when shutting down? It doesn’t register anything while the engine is running. There is this little guy That I Think is a ground wire for one of the two suppression filters and shouldn’t...

Very nice. Where did you find that one? I think mine (original) has some front to back adjustment.

I agree with the general uselessness of the clutch switch. However, I wonder if it’s not worth having so as to avoid transmission damage if the range selector is moved while in gear. Doesn’t the clutch switch act as kind of a safety so that you don’t shift between direct and underdrive while in...

I’d like to see some attachments auctioned. Perhaps a spare Schmidt loader to mod. Any thoughts if they will auction those?

Any recommendations for a better alternative?

Silly Question, is the handle rotated upside down? The serrations are only on one side.

A little septic work. You know its hot when the hydro cooling fans come on with the ignition. I’ll take this opportunity to complain about the person who installed the system originally. I don’t think a shovel blade is quite deep enough.

another reason to convert to wobble sticks. less tiptoeing when mounting/dismounting.

Nice. Did you consider lifting with the hoe?

Hmmm, perhaps. Relief valves do tend to squeal more than orifices. And I just noticed that the in side of each of those valve spools has a check-valve, those could be the source also as they vibrate in their respective seats. The student handout does indeed show a .032 orifice at the cylinder...

A couple of quick observations;The restriction for the Backhoe raise and lower ram is at the valve I think. At least that’s where all the squealing seems to come from. Second, while it puts a load on the engine I don’t think things happen any slower at normal engine idle. IOW, the high idle...

Maybe thats why it was leaking. Stanley seal kit 04596 fixed it up. A few more dollars to recharge the accumulator.

That must be the origin story of your username.

I agree with fixing them, they should be straight. I just cant see how they could shorten the drive shaft. The torque tube would have to deform for that right?