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True, but one broken brake line and..........

Copper plate works great for a removable backing plate too....if you can afford it.

Back to the original post you made....Ive pulled tons of trees and logs out of the forest and had a couple of line breaks. If what you are pulling hits a stump, you only got a split second to back off. Theres no way I'd stand next to my winch while pulling in a hazardous area, or with a very...

Nice job. Hinges look great too. Im considering adding a 12vdc alternator on mine to charge my pump battery. Is the hydraulic pump motor 12 or 24vdc?

And type 3: the driver (me) who lets You go first. If you get stuck, I'll help you do whatever it takes to get you out while teasing you about getting stuck. Because sometimes its still fun, unless something breaks.

too bad it wasn't thicker, we could mill up some ar15 receivers.hahaha

Yea, I got one of those in my bed. Being a former structural steel welder for decades, I can bet that without some cross members welded under the flimsy sheet steel bed, we'd pull that skin right up with a 1000lb load. Cross members can be welded in place and made from channel or even sheet...

the bed is pretty flimsy, so you had better put some cross members timing into the main bed frame.

I bought a 1st gear from them and was happy with their help and very quick response. Good to know about the tires. mine are only a few years old right now. They may outlive me.

Pardon my ignorance...but who is "we" ? are you from Memphis Equipment?

I have a 25K 24vdc winch, I can sit in the cab and steer while winching . It will straight line pull my deuce uphill easily. A snatch block (I like that word) will always make things easier.

Not enough info and pics. is the tank integrated with the pump and control valve? is it all solenoid operated? Most dump rams are single acting and only have one line going to them at the base. The flow control vale is often built into the combination pump/control valve. If its not, then like...

The capital will be Austin? Most chains I use are cam lock. I heated and bent a large old screwdriver at 90 degrees. It works fine, Made one for my son too. he is a long haul driver with the Portland/Seattle/Spokane/ Utah route, and has to chain up sometimes 2 times in a day.

Both of you are outstanding contributors here. Now if you can find me a 8lb jug of Accurate 1680 reloading powder.........

these trucks are pretty easy to patch up. most of it is flat, so its just about cut and weld. very little forming involved.

looks good. you can either tack a backer strip on the inside of the sheet metal, or washers to hold the new patch in place.

use a body saw and cutoff wheels. avoid torch work as it distorts the metal. tack weld, then skip weld the new metal in place. If it looks like its going to distort and warp, tack a strong back on it, using tacks on one side so it can be removed easy.

Ball bearings work the best. they can get by the "arch" in most baffles. you can even leave a few in there.

Good reasoning on your part.....one tow truck ride will cost more than replacing parts in both axles.

A damn good heater . better yet, a apu off a long haul diesel truck. That will provide heat, 120vac, and if you need it, air conditioning. The 120vac can also provide power for a 24vdc battery charger.