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@ Simp......agree. I think (hard for me to see the line on the 936) the 936 wasn't rigged the same as the recovery truck. it had a disadvantage, as the recovery truck was slightly "lifting" the back of the 936, causing the spades to fail to dig down, and the 936 rigged lower, pulling down on...

https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/engine/types-of-engine-bearing-damage/

I like your work area. I have to put cardboard down so my clothes (wool only in the winter here) doesn't freeze to the ground and I get stuck to it, ripping 80$ pants getting up.

optical illusion.........the new one looks 2 inches shorter. Normally Id straighten it and weld it for a spare, but that looks like cast steel. It would likely break right next to the weld even with 11018 low hi rod.

Boyce has beaten everyone Ive contacted on shipping costs for products I buy, to my area, which is maybe 400 miles east of Montaillou in west WA.

In.

Couldn't you just use a A2 wheel and tire? they are only a hundred bucks and would get you home. I got A3's on the front, and A2's on the read of my M35A2.

I wonder how many Deuce and 5 tons have been stolen?. I bet even Hummers are not a "item" like a Honda car or BMW. No market for a big military chunk of iron, and too few to hide them in plain site. My biggest concern would be fuel or battery theft....lock those up and you'll be fine. wait...

I just remembered you are right near the border of Canada. A hidden electrical cutout switch may be more cost effective, and would actually save your vehicle from being stolen.

Mine "ticked" so bad I did a valve clearance adjustment. Still makes noise. leaks oil, gear oil and a little air. I keep up on topping things off and use fuel additives, change oil and have done a coolant flush. Now I just drive it and ignore the noises. My take is ........wait until something...

You dont need theft ins. Where ever you park, turn the front tires hard to the curb before shutting it down, then when they try to turn the armstrong steering wheel, they will think something is wrong and just leave it.

c correct...and you only need to turn the crank /balancer twice to adjust all the valves. Maybe the TM might even state that.

Whats a "overhead setting"? do you mean valve position? If you cant trust the valve position in relation to the TDC on the balancer, the engine likely wouldn't run. Not many people would pull a injector (or 6) to find TDC.

I put a engine driven pump on my F350 / 460ci truck. I installed a 4 way joy stick to operate the rams. the raise/lower ram is a double acting, but it raises and lowers a arm and chain, so there is no down pressure. the angle rams are single acting . I paid 650$ for the pump with the clutch...

Correct....you cant fight city hall. He knew the risk of parking a 10 ton vehicle off his property, or not parking it in a storage yard.

So I guess having a parts vehicle in your back yard is out of the question.........

A Whole lot of Laws are Useless except for collecting revenue. We survive here with a whole lot less laws, and I hope people that move here realize we don't need politicians and councilman running our lives. If that fancies other people.........fine, live where everything you do is already...

I have a A2. I just noticed you have a A3. I haven't had to change mine, so I haven't researched it too much, but I figure I can modify something to fit, not OEM for around 250$. yours is about 5-600$ for OEM type, so I would personally go the regulator route first. I read somewhere that when...

when mine takes a dump. I'll find a late model aftermarket alternator/regulator, even though it may not be "submerge proof", it will be cost effective to replace when it goes out.

If the alternator is overcharging, its because the regulator isn't working. I'd replace the regulator, unless you have deep pockets and just want to do them both together....some people do.