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"You really don't want to use a spacer and a longer stud as it will put more load on the stud due to leverage on the stud at the base (cantilevered)." This is wrong. Increasing grip lengths increases the resilience of the connection. Adding spacers to problem joints will reduce loosening and...

I don't mean to thread them in the hole deeper. Put a spacer under the head of a longer bolt like a washer.

Here it is. This will allow you to put any 6.5 damper on a 6.2. https://quadstartuning.com/products/fluidampr-spacer-ring

The Dayco PB damper is a 6.5 style but has a spacer for use on a 6.2 engine. If you can find that spacer you could use the 6.5 damper without disassembling.

Dayco has one available but it's $$$. Part number PB1102DP. Rock Auto has best pricing.

If you have room, put a spacer under the head of the bolt and use a longer bolt. This will solve most breakage problems. Longer grip lengths make for tougher connections. If you want a stronger bolt, metric socket head cap screws are available in class 12.9. If you want to use high strength...

That's true. I put refurbished late model Dodge 17" rims on my truck. Semi-large 16 and 16.5 tires aren't available to buy anymore. The refurb rims were powder coated. I used house paint black. It isn't peeling but it definitely shows the sliver along the rim from hand mounting.

Is it similar to Sunbrella? Wash it in a laundry soap and bleach combo. Follow with 303 Protectant. This will clean and provide you with 1 year of water/mold resistance.

I took a little more extreme of a route. I put 37 inch tires on and that solved the speed problem but it was still loud as heck. I'm in the process of turbocharging it as that works as both an exhaust crossover and intake muffler. I can't report on results yet.

The M1008 will cruise at 65 on 33 inch tires but it's really loud. The early civi trucks had a muffler on the air intake and an exhaust crossover in the intake manifold. These both help mitigation noise. Consider adding a crossover or H pipe in your existing stock exhaust pipes to make the...

You could also attach your sensor to the oil sample port.

I fully understand what you are trying to do. What you want to do is going to be very expensive. It was over $300 to build the two hoses in my picture and I was able to salvage hose material to make one of them. It also took some adapters on the block side to get it done. I used JIC/Triple-Lok...

I believe the o-ring is on the drain fittings. You'll have to unscrew it completely. The o-rings is available but you'll have to measure it. Mine hasn't started leaking yet but I plan to replace it when it does.

A possibility is to take one each of these, cut the flared ends off, and use a Swagelok T to turn them into a m x f with an extra port.

The cooler fittings are -6 or 3/8 inch in size. It does not appear that the fitting with the port is available in -6.

Those are called "Tube-O" fittings. I can only find them as hose ends. They appear to be normally used in automotive refrigerant applications.

New trucks sometimes come with a self-healing coating based on a thixotropic gelled calcium sulfonate formula. It's fairly inexpensive and availability in rattle can. https://www.daubertchemical.com/store/product-list/corrosion-prevention/nox-rust-x-121b It does not penetrate into joint seams...

If you buy a lift pump you MUST buy a Delphi HFP906. The others look similar but they don't have the right arm on them.

On the other hand, DOT 5 doesn't absorb water which is corrosive. There is no chance of protecting the system from any water if the fluid can't absorb it. M1008 caliper piston.

Anything military should still be DOT 5. There is no difference between components in a DOT 3 system and DOT 5, however I believe the combination of fluids can cause the rubber components to swell and fail. DOT 3 systems are more reliable. If it's been fully cleared out of old fluid and switched...