• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Thread type and size of oil line radiator left - M1009 / Chevrolet Blazer K5 Diesel

Elektroman99

Active member
169
138
43
Location
Siegburg, Germany
Dear Steel Soldier Community,

this is a very specific question here regarding the oil lines going from the engine block and automatic transmission to the radiator. - I'll provide a better photo - I've looked through the TM once but can't find any specifics on the thread size.

There are two oil lines going on the left side between the radiator and breather and back to the engine block and automatic transmission respectively. (I may be wrong about this.) I would need to know what thread these oil pressure lines have at the front of the radiator so I can install adapter pieces there to pick up oil temperature and pressure.
A photo from my engine wash shows these oil pressure lines, they go under the steering linkage (See picture).

20230311_143240_v2.jpg

Can anyone help here?

Best regards
Elektroman99
 

Elektroman99

Active member
169
138
43
Location
Siegburg, Germany
That's right, those are the two connections I'm talking about. I want to put an adapter between the hard line - where the vent line comes off of - and the hose connection (crimped connection) - think it's a B-18 hose end - to install the sensors named above.

I would need to know the thread type and size of the B-18 ports for this
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
Why do you want to tap in there at those lines? The engine block already has an oil pressure sending unit for the "idiot light", just pull that out and a couple of SAE type brass fittings and the job is done.
For the tranny line, I used a tubing cutter and cut the line near the tranny and flared the ends and inserted a 'T' fitting in the line, I did have to use a couple of brass fittings to get the depth I needed for the trans temp probe. Much easier then messing with those aluminum fittings and lines.
 

Elektroman99

Active member
169
138
43
Location
Siegburg, Germany
I did not want to change the vehicle orginal sensors.
I want to attach the additional sensors at the transition from hose metal thread to aluminum socket on the radiator. The reason is that I can not "squeeze" hose sockets, as is the case in the M1009 with the oil lines everywhere and therefore prefer to work with a screwable adapter piece.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
I fully understand what you are trying to do.

What you want to do is going to be very expensive. It was over $300 to build the two hoses in my picture and I was able to salvage hose material to make one of them. It also took some adapters on the block side to get it done. I used JIC/Triple-Lok fittings on the block side.

PXL_20230314_002539786.jpg
 

Elektroman99

Active member
169
138
43
Location
Siegburg, Germany
My plan is to use such adapter connections at the front of the radiator, because there is space and the sensors are protected once again.

Here is a picture of a sensor adapter from a self-built block. Here the user has cut the hoses and provided the sensor block with newly crimped hoses, that I want to avoid.
pserv2.jpg pserv3.jpg pserv.jpg

(It is not my sensor block, I had only found this type of attachment on the Internet.)
 

Elektroman99

Active member
169
138
43
Location
Siegburg, Germany



Thanks to @87cr250r for this good photo. :)(y)

In advance:
Please excuse my - possibly from your point of view - partly superfluous questions, but I really have to approach the topic step by step. So a big sorry for the forum members I go on the nerves. :cry:

Which screw connection has the oil pressure hose (the press sleeve) on the radiator input and output?

It is true, it is identical to mount a sensor unit in a flexible hose, if I can mount it - from the space - also in the front directly on the radiator. However, I would save the procurement of the hose and the pressing of the hose collar completely.


Hence these two current questions:

Does anyone know the thread dimension of the two radiator inlets and the hose collar?
Does anyone know in which direction the oil flows here?
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
The transmission lines are inverted flare.

The oil cooler lines are "Tube-O" fittings. They use an o-ring to seal. The correct hose end for the oil to connect to the oil cooler is Parker 15G26-8-8.


Elektroman99, the hose fittings are specific to the hose types and manufacturer. You will find it very difficult to find the fittings to splice into an existing hose and you will also find it difficult to find a shop to do the splicing.

You can install the sensor in a new hose by splitting it and adding JIC female hose ends. It's much easier and less expensive to work in JIC. You'll still need to get the 15G26-8-8 fitting and use parker 26 series hose. Make sure you get the high temp stuff. You will also need to get NPT to JIC adapters for the engine block and you'll need to figure out how to route around the exhaust.
 

Elektroman99

Active member
169
138
43
Location
Siegburg, Germany
@87cr250r

So I can't use a 3/4-18 inverted flare thread T adapter piece between the hose sleeve and the metal line where the vent comes off? I wanted to save myself the work of squeezing hose sleeves - and the purchase of industrial pressure hoses with special specifications -?
:unsure:
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
If the threads did engage where is the seal going to happen? The fitting on the truck has an o-ring, inverted flare does not. Also, the Tube-O fitting on the truck is 3/4-16.
 

Elektroman99

Active member
169
138
43
Location
Siegburg, Germany
Well... now I'm totally confused. I did not understand...
Maybe it's my understanding or the translation, but I don't understand the problem. (...I don't mean it in a derogatory way).

Normally there should be no more than 2-3 bar pressure on the line. If I use a normal ¾" thread and seal it with an O-ring and Teflon tape, I should be able to install 2 brass T-pieces.



I would then screw the temperature sensor and the pressure sensor to these T-pieces. Where do I have the thought error? I do not want to change the pressure hose and the hose muffles or buy my own pressure hose.

Unbenannta123.JPG

I want to understand where you think the problem is here.

@nyoffroad
Where on the engine is the sensor for the "idiot light"?



*************************

OK guys, then I ask the question differently:
:unsure:
A) Where would be the best and easiest place to take pressure and oil temperature?
B)What is wrong with mounting on the oil pressure hose that goes to the radiator and back from it?
What connections can I use if I want to c) mount one pressure sensor and one temperature sensor each, d) in between the pressure hose and the aluminum pressure line, and e) in the pressure hose?

I know it's a lot of questions, but:
I can't "crimp" hose fittings and I can't "turn" an aluminum block, so I'll have to resort to T pieces from the trade, but.... Damn it...I'm not the first person to install a diagnostic component in the M1009 for oil temperature and pressure.
:eek:
 
Last edited:

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
The threads are not the sealing surface in either inverted flare or tube-o. You must use the correct fitting geometry.

The female inverted flare fitting has an angled seat that the tubing bottoms out against. This is where the seal occurs.

The Tube-O female has a pilot that an o-ring slides over. The male fitting is bored to accept the o-ring on the tube pilot.

Here is a chart that shows the fittings. The radiator side is "female o-ring". The hose end is "male insert o-ring".


There is a 1/4 NPT port on the front of your engine block that ties into the front camshaft bearing bore. This is a good place to tap for an oil pressure sensor.

The best place to take oil temperature is in the oil pan. You can modify a drain plug or install a fitting in the pan. Oil temperature isn't particularly important to measure. It follows the coolant temperature very closely.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks