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The IP is easier to install than a distributor from scratch on a v8 gasoline engine. The gear it bolts to is in the timing cover. There are 3 bolts and a locating pin. Basically, it can't be put on wrong as long as the gear hasn't been removed with the pump out. The rest of the install is...

All of the CUCV vehicles had the same engine and transmission. A few of the trucks had NP205 transfer cases while the rest had NP208's. This made the supply and maintenance pipelines very simple. Only the M1009 had 3.08 gears and the small tires Warthog mentioned. Everything else had 4.56...

Since this thread came back to life I might as well add some current info. I threw a rod on my 396 Big Block in the M715 in March 2012. It happened on start up with a hydrolocked cylinder. Not doing some crazy hi rpm mud run. Anyway, I put a HMMWV pull out 6.2 in last winter and have been...

Sorry I haven't helped on this thread any. Been a busy week. The big mouth, small mouth is for automatic (small) or manual (big.) I got my big mouth nose cone from NAPA. Joe was correct on the price being around $15 or so. All of the above is for a direct drive 27MT. All of the redux drive...

Even with an electric pump, you have to turn the engine over to get fuel going out the injector lines to the injectors. When I installed the 6.2 in my M715 I had an unknown hair line crack in a fitting before my electric lift pump. I could fill the fuel filter up with the pump,bleed all the...

Are you familiar with the sweet smelling blue/white smoke that happens when the glow plugs don't work as good or as long as they should and the engine has to crank 3-10 seconds to start? Is it that or the burned wiring smell you are getting? Just trying to help narrow down wiring or exhaust.

The theory is that gasoline engines need around 60 rpm to start and diesels need around 180-200 rpm to start. Good load tested batteries and a good starter are essensial. The direct drive starter is super easy to rebuild yourself. You build your M715 all those years ago, you can do the...

The best method I have figured out to change the single fuel supply line under the intake is this: Get a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 1/4 short socket. (It might be 5/16, but I haven't done this in a few months and don't remember) Get a lawn chair pad, sleeping mate, something soft and flexible...

The 6.2 wiring is really very easy. Constant power to the top of the IP to turn it on (pink wire). Constant power to the sensor on the passenger side outside rear of the head that controls power to the cold advance/fast idle solenoids (green wire). Both pink and green need to come on and go...

Warthog beat me to it. I took a M1009 pull out engine with the entire M1009 engine wiring and swapped everything over to a HMMWV pull out engine to put in my M715. I followed the wiring diagrams from the CUCV -20 manual. I drove it to work today, works great. As the other Joe pointed out...

I had the same thing happen with a new pump a few years ago. Slight burr on the solenoid shaft. Pull the hose and the wires off the cover. Once you get the 3 screws out, the cover will probably move itself just a bit toward the front of the engine. Pick it up. Just put the new one on the...

I drove the M715 today. Cold idle rpm 40-42 psi. Fully warmed up engine idle rpm 35-37. Driving at around 2000 rpm with a warmed up engine was 50-55 psi.

Your correct about that truck being kind of high. I think we loaded or unloaded about 500 NDT's out of it one night at the Rally in 2007. Unless you just have to have tan paint. I would advise against it. I painted a truck that color a few years ago and it drove me nuts. You can't see where you...

The brass bolt on ones are much better. Keep them.

I will have to look on my M715 which has a 6.2 and a mechanical oil psi gauge. I think I cruise at 45-50 psi and idle around 25-30 psi. The TM for the 6.2 gives what psi should be seen. I really think you have an electrical problem. But, verify you have oil psi first. Follow the steps in...

I had a loose torque converter bolt. It only made noise when I gunned it hard from a standing stop while turning left. I don't know how to explain that. However, you are correct that it should be in time with rpm. Are your lock out hubs unlocked? Maybe a front u-joint is spinning and bad...

Check the easy stuff first. Motor mounts, shifter linkage rubbing anything, transmission fill tube and vacuum tube rubbing, leaf spring ends, leaf spring center pins, t-case cross member and mount. Plus the big one that every CUCV seems to have. Torque converter bolts along with a possible...

My suggestion is to finish what you started to do a few months ago. Put a mechanical gauge on there so you know what is happening. Once you figure out your oil pressure is ok. You will need to go tracing wires, cleaning the big through the firewall plug behind the fuse panel, cleaning the...

When you let off the power and do anything besides exactly straight, the locker will unlock. You are probably just hearing the locker lock back up again. I tell people riding with me in the Detroil Lockered M715 "it is just the locker saying hello." They usually have big bug eyes after the noise.

Thank you.