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Mark, if you want a real one. I will have someone to introduce you to tomorrow at the show. He has one to sell. I will be there in the M715.

Sounds like a plan. We are all loaded up and ready to go.

Yep, time for a transmission rebuild by what you described.

I drove the repowered M715 home from work today and all seems set for this weekend. Colton also has RED just about ready to go. The track meet should be done around 2100 Friday. That will get us on the road around 2230 and at BVORR around mid night. I am going to ask Clint to save us some...

Read the manuals, but that bottom fuse is what controls the 24V side of things and will probably be your best starting point. I had one in there that was broken, not blown inside the plastic leg. Drove me nuts trying to find what was causing power loss at odd times.

Two months have gone by and an another update is past due. Colton spent a good bit of his spring break sanding RED down and making all the interior panels the proper color. I took off a few days to help him paint it Friday. Then, we spent most of today putting it all back together. Our goal...

I am not sure exactly what sound you are looking for. I just put a Cherry Bomb welded muffler on my 6.2 powered M715 last week. Here is a video of how it sounds. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPL5pTNCGhs I think it is more tug boat than any thing else. You wanted suggestions, so here is an...

You might be able to come in between the inner fender and the frame or, from the bottom instead of pulling a bunch of parts.

You need two special tools. A steering wheel puller to pull the wheel and a spring compressor to push down the lock plate so the C clip can be removed. The manuals don't really show this procedure. However, there have been several threads about it in the past. Look at the bottom of this page...

I used a set of wire cutters. What everybody used to call dikes.

Those lines from Badger Diesel are great. They will leak or at least seep if you don't do a square cut and push them all the way on. After about 10 times pulling an end of and putting it back on. Cut off the last 1/2 inch or so and all will be good again.

I just got an email from a guy who does not get on the internet much. He is looking for a NP200 transfer case for his M37. He is part of the re enactment at the show. Anybody have one for sale, that can give it a ride to the Rally and how much? Thanks.

I have had my M715 on the Gilmer trails. Except for the wooded section in the back, a M35 would be a blast out there.

Let them cycle twice and if all is working right, the white smoke should go away. The longer you crank on a cold engine, the more white smoke you will get when it fires.

Without more information, it is hard to pin point exactly what is wrong. Do the obvious. Check all grounds, especially the one on the parking brake housing up under the dash. Check the big plug on the bottom of the steering column, that is the blinker wiring connector. Of course, checking...

Again, warm it up and check the fluid with the truck on a level surface and the engine running. If you got it full, then it is full. If you need to add, remember the hash marks on the stick are 1 pint apart, not 1 quart like the engine oil.

The transmission fluid needs to be checked with the fluid at operating temperature and the engine running. It normally takes 2 gallons to fill it back up after dropping the pan and changing the filter on the transmission. If you add fluid and then check it right away, you will get a false...

Sorry about the 1987 wrong ID. I was thinking fuel injection for gas engine change over which did happen in 1987 for Chevy

4 door trucks, Suburbans and full size Blazers didn't change in 1987 like the rest of the GM truck line did.

Here you go Joe:http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/cylinder-head-fasteners/make/chevrolet/year/1985/engine-size/6-2l-379?keyword=arp%20studs