Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Your troubleshooting should have started with disconnecting the batteries at the first sign of smoke; I'm perplexed you would continue to screw with it after that.
Whatever problem(s) you had at the beginning are now going to be significantly complicated by burned out fuses, fusible links, and...
Put your multimeter in ohms and connect the black lead to something metal, then touch the negative terminal on the front battery with the red lead. The meter should indicate zero-ish ohms. If it's an analog meter the needle will swing swiftly to the other side and hold on or very near zero...
This is where I was after hearing the symptoms.
Are you getting the WAIT light?
Try this first: Turn the key and watch the WAIT light, when it goes out wait about 20 seconds, then turn the key off. Repeat this cycle three or four times and then try to start it. If it starts (or sounds...
I'm totally guessing, but either some type of fiberglass or plastic. Working from memory I recall seeing a spun pattern on the unpainted inside of the tube like I would expect from fiberglass, but then I also remember curls of plastic where the sheet-metal screws attache the lid to the tube...
I finally gathered all the parts I needed to install the big antenna on the CUCV.
I'm not really sure what this was used for, but I think it was a training antenna for triggering or jamming IEDs? Not sure. Anyway, there was a 315MHz whip antenna mounted in a plexiglass strip that is screwed...
I watched this all day until it was over. Wanted to bid but didn't.
Someone got a really good deal.
https://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/all,wa/auction/view?auc=2164517
The M1101 already has the surge brakes, runaway brakes, and parking brakes, tongue jack, landing legs, etc.
I was ready to start cutting my M1101 to get it lower until I hauled a yard of gravel. The height of the trailer was actually beneficial because I could position the cart/wheelbarrow...
Lowering the M1101 seems like it would be a lot less work.
There's a thread around here somewhere that details how easy it is to get that trailer close to the ground.
Found it: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134805-Another-way-to-lower-an-M1101-M1102
The only primer in the garage is self etching primer.
The wheels have gone many years with a coat of self etching primer and spraycan flat black, with only some chipping where a rock or lug wrench has hit.
I thought it would a two or three hour job; swap in the new(er) sliders for the topper. The old ones had moss growing in the tracks since I bought them used for $20 several years ago, but worst of all they leaked. I had reused the old (prob OE) window seals so that may have been part of it...