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Yeap. Might as well just get the KTxxxx kit from ambac and reseal the whole thing while its off. Make sure the throttle arm inside the pump is moving freely and the end pivots interdependently of the middle part that is held into the bore there. Sometimes they corrode and stick together REAL bad...

JimC has some on here and I think on ebay as well. I do believe someone here found a replacement at their local ace hardware, but its been a long time since I read that discussion. If all else fails it is an active cummins-onan part number. When searching for a cummins or onan number try it...

ALL MEP 002/003 use that spring loaded governor linkage. What you have is correct. Its like a miniature shock absorber. Take this part off. Does the internal spring pull the two pieces together or is it floppy? With this off the main governor arm #9 should be all the way up. If you mush it...

TM5-6115-585-34 The spring loaded shaft linkage is correct. Its just not drawn well. The spring #6 yanks on the governor arm and in turn pulls up the linkage connected to the IP.

THis is how it needs to be. Usually have the spring loaded rod come down on the other side of the throttle arm though.

If the solenoid is lifting and lowering as it should and the throttle arm is not raising, you found your problem. No more electrical work. Is the spring attached to the governer adjustment screw? Can you raise the throttle arm with as crew driver or is it tight? and hard to raise? If it is...

Havent seen any on Mil equipment. See them on craigslist for 1500 or less usually though.

The cranks are perfectly in line on the throws. They TDC the same, its like a rabbit kicking. Its why they jiggle like ****. Find compression TDC set lash on both, then done.

If you have a helper have them start it and watch the throttle arm/solenoid area and make sure the solenoid retracts, if it DOES retract, make sure the throttle arm goes all of the way up on its own. If it does not retract, figure out why, a fault in the circuit or a faulty protection...

Roger. I saw all of that, but is there no way to prove FMVSS like the other guy in WI? did..?

Zout I know it is GA only, I just had been following along.

So with the 5 tons technically meeting fmvss its good to go?

If he wants to build it engine parts are available. I wonder if it was eating engine oil to run away or diesel. Check the oil for level and diesel contamination.

The continuity between ground poles will be inadequate. Sell the 6/3 on craigslist and buy some 6/4 SO. 6/4 is what I use, cost like 120? for 50ft. Call around to a LOT of places, prices vary wildly.

It does not really contradict. The main thing is grounding. You need to stick with one ground . You will need to pull it from the house to the set or from the set to the house. The dual neutral bond is kind of wishy washy, and I along with many others choose to only have one in the panel. This...

Scenario A. Get out your magnifying glass. I cant stand the image resizing uploader...

No. In the first picture the neutral and ground are bonded INSIDE the panel and no ground rod is needed. This is often overthought. If you have utility power you are going to have a neutral bonded to ground already. Bring 4 wires from the genset. Remove the neutral bond at the genset and use...

You are absolutely correct re the timing and light method, but I think one thing is being overlooked perhaps. There is a decent amount of wiggle room, and as long as your are more IN phase than out, after flipping your breaker you lock the rotors together effectively. When this happens it will...

Did this turn out ok?

The low voltage sensing wires would not be too hard, but the load wiring will be tricky to find a way to switch it back and forth. Only decent way I see is a BIG version of a 002/003a rotary switch and sit down with some catalogs and see if they make one that goes up to the needed amp rating