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Track down these guys. Their part # below. They have been sole manufacturer since early 2000's 8036-100 THE AIRFLO INSTRUMENT COMPANY, 53 ADDISON RD, GLASTONBURY, CT, 06033-1601 06102 5 07/10/2007 117 61.69 THE AIRFLO INSTRUMENT COMPANY (Duns: 001153790) 53 ADDISON RD...

Could be a faulty Current transformer but thats a guess. double check your TM for this fault condition for some more clues. If that doesnt get you anywhere, read the mep-003a main breaker thread. Lots of info and measurements in there. Lastly. Consider an oversized contactor to replace the...

Looks roughly the same except for the packaging. This is apparently the precursor of the 2cyl HATZ APU me and jesusgatos have. They were mounted in the M88 and M992. One thing that IS nice, is the drawings are of much better quality than the mep002/003 manuals. Obviously some isnt the same, but...

All the rebuild info/ bearing clearances etc is already in the 'regular TMs" but here is the PDF anyhow http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-2815-221-34-and-P.pdf

Here is the fram number, and BIG list of cross #'s http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=F&pn=CAK256 My oreilly locally has this http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WIX0/42276.oap?ck=Search_42276_-1_1978&keyword=42276 napa should have one with same part number cheaper in napa...

You should be able to cross it to something https://dynamic.donaldson.com/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?section=10063&item=37650

You will pop the breaker before you have any Hz deviation from the engine struggling. Look in the big long main breaker thread for more max load information. Breaker could be bad, I think the guy with the 10k head on the 002a says he runs about 8500 watts on it. Time for injector rebuild/reset...

Here is the engine gasket set. Should include EVERY gasket on the engine. I am looking for a surplus lot of them somewhere, but my membership at NSNnow has expired. I suggest signing up fro a trial over there and typing in the NSN number, and finding places that have them NOS and request a quote...

Does it sound like it has good compression? I have done a lot of HG's on these Fuel knob all the way up? Disco the joint to the throttle control and manually move the throttle to max while starting, see what happens

Ah , glad I am not crazy. Thank you for confirming my thoughts. Yes so if the switches are operating correctly, for a brief moment after holding in start and then letting go , the master switch will fall into prime/run. Your solenoid should stay retracted until the oil pressure drops down...

I have never tested a 004a for consumption, and I was simply guessing based on my other 2 stroke detroit experience which not being much knows they burn oil and like to rev. The 005A I did test for consumption was around 1.5 gallon/hr at 35kw and somewhere around 1-1.25 if memory serves for...

Maybe its just my headache or the fact the 002/003 market is drying up in the south so I havent touched one in a few months, but does the solenoid not retract/stay retracted while in the run position for a few seconds if the switches are good? If you have good oil pressure and its not...

IS the solenoid operating properly? This is a tell-all. If it works then your switches are ok. If it works and your not getting fuel, check the linkage. Make sure the throttle arm is able to travel to max throttle, and does so during starting. I think all but one of 50+ meps I have fixed have...

it wont be fuel efficient, but it will work! Pre MEP - dod standardization when all branches had their own random equipment. Find the TM number and I can probably get it

I have heard that mentioned before, but I get 24v on the aux + lead to the pump with the switch on when in run its dead. On all that I have had to troubleshoot and mess with anyhow.

Make sure the pumps are hooked up to the right bullet connectors. easy to switch them around see if one of the two main pumps does not have power with the float up all the way, that one will be the aux, move the pump to that one.

I usually us the nickle permatex anti-sieze but the copper works fine as well.

If wd/liquid wrench or kroil wont work with a hammer or some big channel locks, put some heat to it. Should bust it free pretty easy with heat given its aluminum in a steel bore with no threads.

I keep piles of all the injector gaskets and copper rings avail. Rob , use a curved hook pick and just dig it in at the edge, try a few spots untill you can grab the copper and yank it out.

Every one I have had, has had it