Search results

The spark may or may not be an issue when you connect the battery cable; charging a functioning electrolytic cap will cause a little spark, too. You can check with your amp meter and see how much current the generator is drawing from the battery steady state with the master control switch in...

Download the TM; wiring diagram is in there - as well as on top of the control cubicle (although that one may be really weathered and hard to read).

You can turn the switch on the panel at any time; it's just for the metering circuit, and it's intended that it be used while the generator is running. If you've got voltage at the outlet, yet the meter shows no voltage in any meter selection position then it's the meter circuit that's not...

What do you mean by 'getting good voltage'? Are you getting a measured 120V (using either internal or external meter) - or are you getting something higher? Higher output voltage that can not be adjusted by the pot typically indicated the output transistor in the regulator that drives the...

Well, the Hz meter _is_ an RPM indicator; the output frequency is directly related to the engine speed. 60 Hz == 3,600 RPM (provided your meter and transducer work, which it sounds like is true). Voltage regulation is a seperate degree of freedom that is, to some extent, independant to engine...

Your governor isn't adjusted correctly; look in the 2A042 engine TM - I think the instructions are there. If not, they will be in the genset TM.

Nicely done.

If the O-rings are not mangled, then I'd say reuse them. The ones in my old pump were fine - I kept them for spares.

There's a check valve, too, that could be limiting the amount of fuel flow. Take all that stuff apart and check it - it's really easy. As for removing and replacing the pump, that's really simple, too; the only hard part is finding that crows foot adapter in the bottom of your tool box that's...

I replaced the IP; the pump that was on my machine had parts in the high pressure plunger section missing, and would therefore never work. Timed (by purchasing the correct button) and installed a new pump, and she was up and running in short order.

Sounds about right; I'd say more than a trickle from the return line, but not a solid stream by any means. The pumps 'click' rapidly until pressure builds, then they slow until they click a time or two per second. This is normal.

Point well taken, Peter - it's smaller than one would first guess. Still, to support that 30 volt boost we're talking a fairly heavy secondary current for the transformer. Guess that 208->240V limitation is easy enough to overcome using the autotransformer, but don't we now we have the issue...

It all depends on your application; if all you've got are electric heaters, then it's no big deal. If you've got motor loads that are not rated for 208V, then you may have an issue stressing the motors that are not rated for the lower operating voltage. Case might be a deep well pump; my pump...

I'd say $250 / $300 would be fair. You mention it is NG capable, but not without either building or buying an NG conversion kit to make it so. In other words, almost any normally aspirated gasoline engine is NG capable, with the proper conversion kit. More substantial than a Honda portable...

They are small (5KW) in terms of load support, noisy, and provide poor fuel consumption performance. Additionally, when set in the 240 Volt output mode, it's only a two wire system (without modification) - so there's no center tap / neutral - and therefore will not support powering your house...

Personally, I'd go with the finer mesh final filter and keep the stock filter / water separator. That first filter lasts a long time, since you can clean it if dirty. If it ever becomes too grungy to use, you can remove it and put the Wix separator in its place, and still have a final 2 micron...

You say there's a 3-4 Hz dip - but the video only shows about 1.5 Hz; that's pretty normal at 1-2 Hz. It's a mechanical system, and therefore not a perfect return to 60 Hz as an electrical one might be able to establish - but pretty darn close. It should pose no operational problems for backup...

Try riding around in a deuce without any hearing protection yourself; if it’s painful for you, it will be even more so for the animal. I drove six miles one morning in my stock deuce with hardtop without hearing protection, and I’ll _never_ do that again – nor will I bring either of my two...

I've seen it listed somewhere as 6 to 10 feet of lift, but can't remember where; I've tried it with my in-basement oil tank and found it to function without trouble. That test case required about 8 feet of lift.

Bob is correct - you'll find the Anderson powerpole connectors for sale at a number of radio dealers, and typically several vendors selling them at ham radio flea markets. Some of those vendors do carry the monster sized ones.