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Oil status seems like it all depends on the site that's surplusing them; I bought two gensets from GL, at two different sites. One was drained of oil and crankcase fogged, and the other was full of oil - yet drained of fuel and tagged as such.

Both. The fire extingusher and a set of reflective triangles are required for state inspection when you're over 10K pounds in NH (might be a DOT requirement, I don't remember). The First Aid kit is there because I'm a klutz, and want to avoid bleeding all over myself and the truck.

You're off to a good start, Tom. Keep us informed as to how it goes.

Ditto on the recommendation for a CDV-700. I bought one about a month ago - working, shipped for $60 total from a seller on eBay. Mine was surplus from Washington State, last calibrated in 2002, if memory serves. There’s a check-source on the side of the case that can be used to see if the...

Glad to hear you're squared away. As a note of potential interest, this is the third failed 24V charging rectifier / regulator I've heard of in the last month or so. Appears as if it's a common failure.

What's a 'low mileage' deuce worth? About $50 more than the exact same truck with high mileage - because that's what the brand new speedometer cost.

Nice J3! Lot's of fun. I really miss rotocraft - perhaps I'll indulge again someday.

A battery cut-off is a great idea for storage, anti-theft, and a host of other reasons. You should go looking for the drain, however. If only one battery is going down, then it's an internal battery failure - in all other cases, both should be discharging. Source of the drain should be easy...

I agree - if the modification workmanship is reasonable and it runs well, then it's worth it. Let us know if you need any help with it once you get to New Hampshire - you'll not be more than an hour away from my location when in Warner, and New Boston is half that far.

Well, it makes sense that he wanted to idiot-proof it and it was a former rental; there is a way to damage the regulator output transistor, by bringing the engine back to idle and running for a prolonged period of time. This regulator replacement may have been more rugged than the original in...

There was no reason to replace the military regulator with solid state stuff - since it always was solid state and very easy to repair and maintain. If he's done his own thing in terms of a regulator, you're on your own for support. Could be straight forward - using a commonly available...

You might find the transducer for $100 from a private sale - but not from one of the standard MEP parts sources you'll find on the Internet; they all charge fairly good money for these items. I wouldn't cut the panel, either - I'd look around for a small enough meter to fit within the...

Could use an external amplifier to drive a speaker in the back. That amplifier input (and a keying enable for it) could come from one of the RT radio selectors. Then, when you want to address folks in the back you would select the proper RT on the control head and key the transmitter mic switch...

For me, the generator is a power backup – priceless when needed; I’d not be running waste oils through it unless there was no other source of fuel that I could obtain for it in a true emergency.

I think my Dalmatians would like that - plenty roomy.

The question of fuel use between the two size generators is because of the additional rotating mass of the larger set; it’s a 4 cylinder engine instead of two – in addition to the larger alternator. All that mass requires fuel to keep in motion – even when not delivering power to the load...

What are you planning on running? Anything your civi 6KW generator can power, it's likely an MEP-002A can run 24/7 without breaking a sweat - and do it with less fuel than an MEP-003A would require. While extended runtime is nice to have - and therefore it's good to size the genset closely to...

As long as you have your 24V-to-12V converter set so that it never puts out more than 13.8V when disconnected from all loads (and the 12V battery), it will never overcharge your 12V battery. It would be emulating a 10A alternator / charging system if configured this way. Most DC-DC...

The simple answer is, Yes, using the 24V-12V converter as a source to charge a 12V battery used as a 'buffer' to run some 12V gear for short amounts of time is perfectly fine. Remember, you'll want to get a nice full charge on that 12V buffer battery when you're done using it - and that may...

I think you're on the right track; sing out if there's anything we can do to help with debug and diagnosis of the VR.