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If you start an 017A with the mode switch in the 'emergency run' position, and then flip it to 'normal' it will shut down - by design; when flipping the switch to 'normal', you need to blip the starter switch to keep it running. It's a design feature that causes the relay that keeps the unit...

Don't use oven cleaner on aluminum - it's got lye in it, and isn't nice. It does work wonders on surfaces with dried oil, varnished fuel, and other crud if you're quick and wash it all off. Also attacks paint, so work quickly. I do what the other folks do, and have a gallon can of Gumout carb...

It's also interesting they think you're going to bathe the entire house in 3W/sq. foot of electric light at all times. Madness. Is this only a rule for ATS installs? How about manual switching? I don't know _anyone_ that has a genset configuration that would allow maximum load with everything...

You can't run two seperate gensets in 120V mode powering each leg; Your 240V loads will see anywhere between 0V and 240V as the generators will not be locked in phase with each other. I'm with the other comments; it's none of his business how big the genset is.

Check connections; you've got two problems, one that sounds like an AC regulator issue, and one that might be a bad DC rectifier / charger - or perhaps a bad connection to one of the batteries. Clean all the terminals on the batteries and cables, and then make certain the connections to the...

Should have mentioned that, Ike - thanks for pointing it out; simpliest way is to use common input connectors for the two generators outside the house (even if one of them will be larger and more costly than needed for the loads supplied). That way you can mix-n-match the generators outside and...

Easiest way to run multiple generators is to not worry about sync'ing; wire your house with two sub-panels - each with its own (small) transfer switch and generator input connection. Wire it so your critical, must have loads (oil burner, well pump, and a few lights) go to one panel and get...

If you want to run everything you've got with the genset you can - but there's a price; whether you run a single light bulb or load the generator all the way to the maximum it does not change the fuel consumption per hour all that much, because you're paying to keep all the rotating mass in...

These vents are indeed the wrong flavor for the application; the original MC vent was different from the other vents on the truck for a reason. Thanks for pointing that out - I didn't consider that when looking at the photo of the setup.

Hello, Kip. Just got your PM; if I can help let me know, but I suspect Tom has got you covered. You've got fuel to the injectors - but at what pressure? If it's not making enough pressure to open the injectors, it would act as you mention; could be a stuck or only partially returning high...

See how the plug in the middle has a raised square shoulder? Put a wrench on it and unscrew it. The little silver cap is a vent. EDIT: Make sure you clean it well before unscrewing the cap so the crud doesn't drop down into the fluid.

No - it will have zero effect.

If your tank is anywhere near full, running with a loose cap will likely spill some fuel on the outside of the tank as it splashes around in the tank from the engine vibration. I'd pick up a vented cap for a few bucks (or just run with a less than full tank and cap backed off for now).

That is an interesting antenna mount; first time I've seen one mounted there.

Those parking garages are a killer, too.

Understood; wires for the load, and wires for sensing the generator output are indeed quite differnet things. Use of the word 'load' without mention of sensing threw me off.

14 Ga is a wee bit on the small side; I suggest something like a short flexible umbilical of water and oil proof cable 4 Ga. – 3 conductor to the plug and connector that feed into the transfer switch. For these short runs, think as heavy as you can make them and still be practical – because...

I suspect that it's not going to be completly straight forward to use one of these controllers on the MEP diesel set - because they were not intended to control a unit with the rather unique feature set of an MEP control box. Now, don't get me wrong - you can make anything work with enough...

DrGreg provides good advice here. Also place the inline fuse very close to the battery positive terminal - making the shortest possible unfused wire length between the positive terminal and the fuseholder. The less unprotected wire you've got the better for safety. I've been using the inline...

In the Southern and more populated part of NH, I think the answer is 'Yes' - there's quite a few foks that go over the border into MA for work - or other reasons.