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If one isn't familiar with troubleshooting electrical systems then he is better off with a "known good" 802a/3a.
The older generators' (00x series) problems centered around the engine side with less sophisticated systems on the electrical side. The 8xx units have a more sophisticated...
The 802/3 units are pretty good, reliable machines. The biggest problem with them is that they are more technically advanced than their forebears and require a different (another) set of skills to keep running correctly. And because of the current cost and availability of certain parts it...
The Hz gauge should be working even if the field isn't flashed. The unit is designed to develop a low AC voltage without flashing. That AC voltage is enough to trigger the HZ meter.
If it won't register on the HZ meter I'd suspect a serious stator problem. A serious stator problem could...
If one looks at the liquid sensor, it's an aluminum tube with four wires coming out. Further down there is a nut and at the point where it goes into the tank there is a flange with phillips screws. Loosen the nut first -- that nut is a locking nut that holds the sensor in place. With the nut...
There have been a few questions on how to solve this problem.
I got into it today a little more, and here are some tips.
First, the NO FUEL light circuits are not electrically connected or in common with the fuel gauge. They even have separate sending units..
NO FUEL as well as AUX FUEL...
"no fuel" light on.
That signal comes from the liquid level unit in the fuel tank. Don't confuse the liquid level unit with the fuel gauge -- they aint the same thing. The"no fuel" light circuitry is in no way related to the fuel gauge.
The liquid level unit has an aluminum tube coming...
ebay has them once in a while. There was one for sale for ~225 on it a few weeks ago, and it was re-listed, so it might still be on that site.
BUT, if you buy that one or any other alternator without a pulley, you will still be stuck with the task of finding a pulley. That could be much...
Here is a picture of an installed fuel solenoid. Looks normal, but the rubber boot is different - it aint gray!
When I got this unit the gray boot was in shreds. Looked around the shop and found an old master cylinder boot that never had been used. Had to trim the narrow end back just a...
I had to replace that metal insert that goes into the fuel tank. It was rusty and I had a spare to substitute.
Those 5/16 inch screws are awfully hard to remove and even harder to re-install.
So, here are a few tricks to make installation easier....
loosen the two hose clamps first - make...
In our household income tax season is a time for gnashing of teeth.
However, whilst working on the 2014 tax return(?) I noticed the hanging folder and saw something that wasn't there, but could be created.
It is that stiff piece of metal that interfaces between the fuel solenoid and the fuel...
You might try looking at your recycling bin. I find that a lot of caps on bottles are interchangeable. You might just find that the cap on Resolve carpet cleaner fits...
I'm parting out an 802a/3a and have a couple of those spin handles if you need one.
X3 on the fuel return line -- I've gotten to the point where I simply replace the fuel return lines en masse. It saves taking the muffler and air filter housing off a second, or third time. It is 1/8 inch I.D. hose and can be had at any parts store. I got some on ebay 'cause I wanted the...
I already checked out southern automotive, but they are out of stock and don't anticipate getting any more, but thanks for the input anyway.
It might be available from some military suppliers, but every time I'm reduced to talking to them they want a small fortune for the part.
z.
There's a 4 (or 5) groove pulley on the DC alternator on this. Anyone know of a part number for the pulley, or know a source for them?
I've checked the part manual and there is a picture that has the pulley in it, but it is not referenced with any sort of number.
z
I would approach it from the standpoint of it being an engine / carb problem and not on the generator end. I had a Troy Built roto tiller that, over time, started "hunting" at idle. Applying the choke reduced the problem, but it just wouldn't run right at idle. I took the unit to the shop and...
The four conductor plug/jack carries the 2 Quad wires and the 2 exciter wires.
Regarding S14 -- that has a relay socket, and the socket looks just like all the others. So, if someone has plugged a relay into that socket, that could be the source of your "oil pressure" problems.
What is...