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Some of you probably saw my other thread about rust under the tandem plate. Got both plates off and decided to take off the spring seat assemblies to look at everything in there. Unfortunately I think I found a serious problem. Looks like the solid bearing block wore a deep groove into the...

Price of something like that would probably get close to a 6bt swap.

Looks like a fun todo list. Would be good to see the details of the locker install and a review. Been thinking about installing some when I put my truck back together.

Well the first rivet is out. Wasnt near as bad as I expected. Only 40 more to go

On a ranger what Ive done is grind off heads, drill holes in the center, and then knock rivets out with a punch. Then ream the hole out to the next size up with a bridge reamer and replace rivet with grade 5 bolt. Obviously on an M35 thats going to suck way more because the frame is way thicker..

Thanks for the advice all. I already have the truck down to the frame so seriously considering going the extra mile and pulling the tandems. Just really dont want to drill those rivets.

Yeah thats what freaked me out. Its bulged out like 1/2" and I dont want it eating at the frame in there. Good idea on hammering it to get the rust out. Might give that a shot first and see if it comes back in a few months.

So it looks like my M35 developed a pretty bad case of rust under the plate that attaches the tandem assembly to the frame. Im thinking that my only option is to cut off the rivets, make a new plate, and bolt everything back together. Any thoughts or suggestions before I start cutting pieces off?

Tip for searching this site... Go to google and type in your search followed by site: steelsoldiers.com. That will give you google results only for this website. Works much better than the search most forum sites have.

Yes, definitely want to try it on a bunch of little brackets. Thanks for reviving this thread.

I've had very good luck with the heatgun and razor scraper method. Panels are thick enough that I dont worry about warping them and after a few seconds of heat the CARC comes off in long strips with the razor scraper. Works great as long as the panel is flatish. Do you have the parts just...

Nice. Adding this to my always expanding list of mods Id like to do.

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Just want to say thanks for the videos. Always learn something interesting. Edit: Could you post a link or part # for the torque rod ends you used?

I had the same issue once and couldn't figure out what it was either. Just seemed to go away on its own. Maybe air trapped somewhere?

Yeah would be nice to see some pictures of how its done. I havent been able to find any.

If I remember right most of those fittings seal with a copper crush-washer so you shouldn't put anything on the threads. They're not the sealing surface. Just get a new washer, clean the threads, and it should seal. If there are NPT threads then I like some teflon tape and some paste smeared...

There aren't that many of these trucks on the road to make it worth it. Going to be hard to get any parts at all in a few years.

When they get rusty they're hard as **** to get out. I think I soaked mine in PB blaster, heated, and beat on them over a couple of weekends before I got them all out. If you're doing the brakes you definitely want to get them out of there and clean up the rust or you're going to have a **** of...

Look forward to seeing the test results!