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It's to keep the the cone pointed forward parallel to the air flow. The actual engine nacelles are canted inboard and droop with respect to the wing. This was done to maximize pressure recovery as it relates to the wings normal angle of attack.

I haven' blown any fuses yet.

I didn't fuse the starter cable yet. I put an 80 amp fuse on the cab feed, which in my truck which leads to the alternator and to circuit 10 that feeds everything else. Some trucks pick that up at the starter solenoid, In my M36A2 it was connected at the battery.

In the realm of preventing harness fires In the realm of preventing harness fires I added a marine battery post fuse to the main feed at the battery terminal. I use one for the main harness feed and one for my accessory feed.

NAPA FIL2837, Baldwin PA1620, and Fleetguard AF826 will fit. They don't have the same CFM rating as the military filter. NSN: 2940008047898 PN: 10912373 is the correct one.

If my memory is still reliable, the biggest user in Maine at that time was probably Gerald Pelletier. They pull double log trailers on private roads. 300,000-400,000 gross. In modern times they buy other stuff. But they were a big Mack customer. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Double the amperage also means stepping up the wire sizes to avoid that waste heat becoming a fire problem.

Some/many of the sites where you log in drop tracking cookies on you that the advert networks pick up.

Dakota Digital is a popular choice. Allows you to use a gas engine tach on diesel. Either flywheel or the "W" terminal found on some diesel alternators.

Erik's Surplus has them under PN 12450226 / RCSK15078

Very limited demand. The principal use is in military gas engines that are long out of service. It's not cost effective to keep manufacturing capacity for limited use items.

2243's should be OK under normal conditions. Erik's carries them and several others also have them. The fuel cap gaskets are available. I think part number 8712325 would work, That's the one for a lot of the older M-series.

Big Mikes Motor Pool has sets of 2245's. The price will scare you a tad. Other vendor's have the slightly less hot 2243's available a bit less scary. I would start with checking the cap, rotor, wires. Clean the plugs. Make sure the cap is dry, condensation is a killer this time of year...

At this point, I would try another ignition coil.

In most places it the only option available for ethanol free. Ethanol free below 91 octane is a rare item. A lot of small engines also seem to run far better on high octane as they don't have computers to compensate for the fuel conditions. All my Stihl 2 cycle stuff will barely run...

You will not get power through the spark plug wire in a static state. The coil only generates voltage when the magnetic field in the coil collapses when the points open. The coil voltage will 15,000+ at that point and kill your meter. The only way to check the spark is first to have the...

That coil resistance is a function of the voltage it was designed for most likely. Even after the change from 6V to 12V (eons ago) many of the auto makers continued to use 6V coils and added a ballast resistor.

Detonation will ruin the rings, not necessarily due to the lack of lead. The 440 probably needs higher octane. The main problem with modern gas in old vehicles, other than valves is ethanol. Ethanol eats rubber gaskets, seals, o-rings, and hoses. You'll generally need to replace them with...

For TH400's the solenoid replaced the mechanical rod linkage on other units. And, I suspect that there wasn't room for the rods in the original cars that were fitted with a TH400. They were moving to bigger power and just plain bigger in the land yachts at the time (1964 Cadillac and Buick)...

Frequently the sender. If you ground the gauge input it will read below empty. If you just disconnect the gauge input it will read full. Most often it's the float not floating. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk