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dunno. i re-oriented my turn-out to almost 90° out to the side of the truck - it really didn't seem to effect the sound level much. :cookoo: but other folks on here have said that the straight-up tip seemed to help? so i dunno. i still have a bullet muff in my stack; the 5.9 is slightly...

i think that looks great. [thumbzup] oh, and i think surface welds would be fine with the right penetration (like i needed to mention that?). keep up the great work!!

there are several inter-twined points in this discussion and they are getting mixed up in their relationship to one another. i agree with this statement. however, the discussion about backpressure in relation to exhaust pipe diameter is not the same. no internal combustion engine...

14.50s singled out, stake sides/bows/cargo cover removed, lighten the load, lockout hubs front and intermediate, and 4.90 gears are about the best thing you could do to maximize mileage all-around. [turning up the fuel a tad can help, also: getting up to cruising speed faster can actually save...

if it's the same rumor i read (on here) it was estimated to be 500hp w/ Water-Meth. i flat out do not believe the block will withstand anywhere near 1000hp, nevermind the rotating assembly. i'd bet a bunch of money on it. and i call it a rumor because no one has discussed seeing this...

suicide knob. IMO belong on tractors and loaders only.

even with near-stock tires, i don't think the stock motor will have enough cohone's to run a 3.38 final drive (0.69x4.90).

put a 4" triangular gussett on the frontside of the uprights to increase that footprint to span across all 6". this thing will be bomb-proof soon. [thumbzup]

lift springs. it may not be astetically apealing, but is quite strong. if mimicing the spring hangers shown in the pics, i'd be doing a lot more cross-bracing. and not lateral cross-bracing: x-type connections that go back up to the stock frame channels. or, a robust I-beam type of...

no - the other way around. mount the diagonals on the rearward edge, closest to the reciever opening (and thus the tongue weight). it does seem logical that the diagonals attached at the front edge of the 2x6 would prevent the tiwist. however, these would do very little to combat vertical...

this is the only reason that i ever saw a -10 manual in the HMMWV.

agreed - the deuce will never be 'competitive'. just call the event coordinator and ask if there's a 'run what'ya brung' opening; likely not. but most everyone loves a deuce and they'd likely be open to a spectacle run just for chits & giggles. if you do pull with it, be careful: wheel...

"100 psi max". although, there might be others that are in a more suitable range? i just ordered two horn solenoids - they are the same solenoids used on the air horns that i just installed. i'll put one on the wet tank and the other in the glove box as a spare for the first of the two...

why 5 min? why do you want to completely drain your tanks every time you shut down?

this is a concerning statement. could you explain more about the design? what design does the builder intend to duplicate? there have been several examples of what 'good' looks like when it comes to lifting the front; and they're not just taller brackets with long shackles (which i hope is...

are some of the x-case mounting bushings worn or missing? have you adjusted the shift linkage rod?

if you're worried about the 2x6 twisting, welding the diagonals to the inboard portion of the 2x6 will not prevent this - the downward tongue weight is on the outward (rear) edge of the 2x6; therefore, the diagonals will actually encourage 'twisting' of the 2x6 once it starts to deflect. your...

so why not just use an air-horn solenoid - that's exactly what it does. pipe it up to the drain port and wire it in to a momentary push button. i think i may do that; they're cheap on eGay.

i was more surprised at the monkey.

looks like they have lots of room to turn in Canada.