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A regular military hot-water heater kit was fielded for G744 5-tons many years ago, and kept in the supply system. Comes with everything to set it up, check with the larger surplus dealers like Memphis or Eastern. Otherwise, just about any DIY system will work, if you flog it a bit and have a...

Never be surprised when sanding down old MVs. Oddities abound!

You'll go a lot further in sand with tires @ 10-15psi, rather then a lot of contrivances. Good old non-directionals really shine in that application, on both M37's and 5-tons. Learned that in the largest dunes in North America, the Yuma Dunes.

A tip for those changing their own military tires, the part that makes getting the wheel out of the tire difficult isn't obvious. Over time, the flap will bond to the wheel, so you need to put your spoon in between it and the wheel. Tap it down in there, rare back on it a bit and you'll hear...

I've seen what can happen to a 5-ton (and a vehicle next to it n the road) when one of those comes apart at speed. Luckily, it wasn't my truck. When they get some 20 years on them and the rubber is tired, they will come apart. They are a maintenance item.

Air wipers are more powerful than any electrics, helpful if you encounter ice. That button needs to be 'popped' out for them to work right. The newer plastic motors are not repairable, all glued together. The best were the vintage alloy Trico ones, easy to fix.

The only reason to run combat rims on an M37 is you like the look. A dumb holdover from WW2 3/4 tons. They are just as much work to dismount as the lockring type, and a LOT heavier. Harder to balance, too. Stick with the LTS wheels and learn to do them yourself, the tools are about the...

That wire is what is known as a wear item. Occasional replacement is indicated. It only seems to fail when you're behind a grouchy bunch of bikers...

The joint with 5 balls is the Bendix CV joint. Also known as the "shovel" joint, one of the balls is drilled to hold captive an alignment pin. As a side note, I had one of those blow in the left hub on my M54A1. Luckily I was only going some 10 or 15 MPH, so the sudden pull to the left wasn't...

For those wondering what the red "C" is for, it stands for Consist. Meaning truck & trailer, weight added together for tons.

For that vintage truck, bridge plates were flat chrome yellow. They added a little pizazz...

The constant-velocity joint with 6 balls (ha) is called a Rezeppa joint. Still in use today in many applications, but is expensive to machine.

No reverse in low is a 5-ton deal if you have a 900-series rig. Not a G742 deuce.

Made it to 70 last May. Did a couple 9.00-20's two weeks ago. Took a bit longer than I remembered, but...

Older generation 2.5 or 5-ton driver's side light mount.

An M34 restoration will require a different bed than an M35. It had raised rear fender areas to clear the 11.00-20 singles under heavy loads. The GMC M135 had the same bed, as it was set up for singles as well. Dig around in the forums, there are some great photos of M34's in service.

REB kits were not military, rather an aftermarket kit from Memphis Equipment. Nothing wrong with that. The Reo 331 Gold Comet engine was one of the best commercial truck engines in it's class. Not cheap to overhaul nowadays, but neither is a Multifuel. I'd lay money it was always an M34...

G741 series seat, for the M37, M43, and the V-41. Sell me one, please!

My volunteer fire dep't drew an 917A2 from the state surplus, and use it to pull a 5K gal water tanker. One awesome truck, with plenty of grunt.

My avatar M37 was done in Gillespie (From Rapco in TX) 24087. It is a bit darker green semi-gloss, found on lots of depot rebuilds. Some tough paint there. A handy bit of info about military paint: 1XXXX is gloss 2XXXX is semi-gloss 3XXXX is flat I had a bunch of 14087 gloss, NSN's went to...