Search results

I got the motor today from NAPA. It was a perfect fit as mentioned before. Even the threaded studs matched up the holes in the mounting plate perfect. I ended up being charged only $35 for it.

Seriously?! I was looking at it and thought, "That looks like a bell."

:shock:I don't think the smoke genie got out of this one. I think he died in it and that's what the smell is.

Looks alot nicer than a parts truck! What is the odd hub cover on the right rear axle?

Bringing this thread back. My blower motor is fried. Ordered the NAPA one referred to in this thread. It is still available and will be here on Tuesday from the Denver Warehouse. I'll post up how it goes. They quoted me $35 plus 10 for the freight. BTW, I've never smelled a motor that...

3 feet gets it just below the axle.

No chips, thank goodness. Just the leaking. I'm thinking if I go through the trouble of pulling the IP, I'll do all the gaskets and seals. Do the lift pump seal too just in case. Bypass the FDC. Get it all over with at once!

I think that's exactly what I have going on. Ugh, looks like a big job to fix a leak. Thanks for the info.

I was thinking the oil lines at first, but the oil seems to be collecting right on the seam between the main housing and the advance housing. Of course I can't see up behind it to tell for sure. Pretty sure it's not the booster pump it's pretty clean around that.

Is there an O-ring or gasket between the advance housing and the main housing of the IP. I think that's where mine is leaking oil from.

Yup, Newstar junk. I should have reused the old one. If it pops off again it's going in the trash. I did put it right on top at 12 o'clock. Luckily the outer part held its shape and stayed on the outer lip. It was much easier to put back on the second time. I added a lock nut on the bolt too.

Redid the drivers side knuckle boot. Darn inner clamp came loose.:mad:

Installed the double rifle mount in the cab. M16 is pictured is a plastic prop, not a firearm.

I drained the radiator tonight. Ran the truck with cardboard over the radiator and the throttle opened a bit. That was enough to get coolant flowing through the T-stat. I ran fresh water through it for about an hour and half before it got clear! Can't imagine how many gallons of water went...

That seems about right, I only got about 4-5 gallons total in it. I did run some CLR cleaner through. I'll flush it again and just add straight AF this time.

Need some advice on a total cooling system flush. I removed several of the small hoses and drained the coolant. Opened up the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator and drained all that. Pulled T-stat housing too. Put the hose with running water in every open hose and let the water run for...

Check the ground before you replace it. Mine did this the other day during a ride. Lights just came on, but didn't flash. I pulled the flasher unit out and cleaned the grounds up and it worked fine after that.

Yeah, I guess "bad day" is all relative. Hope you're up and running soon. So I drove an hour to Wal-Mart and bought lots of oil and Anti-freeze. Funny note, they had Rotella in 1 gallon and 2.5 gallon jugs. When I figured out the cost per gallon the 1 gallon jugs were about $.25 a gallon...

auaNot a good day today. The zipper boot install was a bear. I used the clamp method and still had plenty trouble. I had a tough time even getting the inner clamp on. And the new clamps I got are JUNK. They got all twisted out of alignment very easy. One of the darn screws broke...

Just got my zipper boots today from Erik's. I was able to get the old ones off and everything cleaned up decent before it got too dark. I'll finish it up tomorrow. I went ahead and bought new clamps too. I did have to cut the old bolts to get them apart. The old ones were non-zippered...