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aluminum? There is no way that aluminum will withstand the rigors of exhaust service. Like copper it will work harden (accelerated by exhaust heat) and crack. As to exhaust temperatures, with a diesel engine temp is directly proportional to load. The more load, the higher the temperature. I'd...

Sorry, I wasn't clear, I referring to those 'peaks' we see when shutting down the generator. As the engine slows down, at half RPMs (900 RPM), the unit is running at 30 Hz, and at 1/4 RPMs (about 450 RPM) it would output 15 Hz power.

It is possible you are seeing false reading based on harmonics of the generator output frequency. If this is the case, you'll see one at 30 Hz (second harmonic), and another at 15 (third harmonic) and technically one could even see the fourth harmonic at 7.5 Hz but that's unlikely.)

If that 120/240 delta is using a tap on one of the delta phases to get a neutral (for the 120) you will have problems balancing the load on the generator set. The reason the power company can do this is because they can tap one phase for one customer, another phase for a second customer and the...

The size (CU FT) of the enclosure is important, as well as insulation. Personally I'd not run any engine in an enclosed space without positive air displacement means sufficient to ensure it doesn't overheat.

A good capacitor will draw current as it charges. The only acceptable test for the above perceived problem is to put an ammeter in series with the battery lead and measure long term current after any capacitors have charged.

I'd do an ohms (continuity) check of the sender first.

Yes, I was thinking it was running on what fuel was left in the filter and lines. The idea of the float switch was to prevent draining the filters and air-locking them, I'd think.

You're perhaps describing a standard banjo fitting? If so Grainger may have what you need.

Confirm the day tank has fuel, that the day tank's float switch (which signals that it has fuel) is working correctly.

Two thoughts, one just lurking in the back of my mind is that the under-frequency feature is not active on the 004, only on the precise model. I could be wrong on that however. The other thought is easier: did you put an external frequency meter (say a Kill-a-watt) and verify the frequency...

Almost fraud, the info-plates on the side are covered with stickers, and not photographed. If it has been as bastardized as it appears to have been, who knows what's wrong with it anyway.

As an added bonus: it will heat your shop when running under load!

Not a very scientific test! One's finger is not well calibrated but most semiconductor devices are rated at about 70-100 degrees Celsius which will burn your finger very quickly. Military rated semiconductors may even be rated higher (Military grade: −55 °C to 125 °C (sometimes -65 °C to 175...

One must ask why you want to push ATF through a few filters! These pumps are rated at 180 degrees maximum, and I know your Hummer transfer cases get much hotter than that (mine has peaked at 265 degrees!)

The pumps run when there is oil pressure (or RPMs, I can't remember off the top of my head) and/or when the battle short is on. The feed from the day tank, to the final filter, to the injection pump is strictly gravity, if the day tank, and final filter have fuel it will start. When fuel lines...

The first thing I do when I get this type of problem is see where those damaged wires go. Sometimes it is as simple as a nick or other failure in the insulation that leads to current flow and cascading damage. Other times it is more difficult, a case of overload causing localized heating...

Kevin, sounds like either a 'stuck' relay, or a short in the wiring, but I have no great ideas where to look other than hitting the manual and tracing back and seeing what's happening. Idea: pull the DC circuit breaker and see if the pump still runs. (BTW: most of us leave the main DC breaker...

For stuff like that I got to an industrial supply surplus seller that I know in Manchester NH. They have all kinds of great stuff, such as three phase variacs, and general purpose power supplies. (The place is called ESS on Candia Road for those of us in New England.)

(Crap! I just deleted my entire reply!) 1. I suspect your original diodes were good if they had the forward drop you state, and were 'open' in the reverse. (That is not shorted.) 2. What regulator did you (re)install? Same one, or an aftermarket substitute? Just because the rebuilder thinks...