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Because I'm ignorant on casting porosity, I did some googling on it and at some point GM had a recall for some blocks with porosity. One of the solutions was they coated the area with RTV. If, by chance, the dye doesn't find my leak, I may give the underside of the block a coating of it and...

With casting porosity it can take a while to emerge. My brother had a jeep wrangler 4.0L back in like 93', bought it brand new and had it for a couple years before a strange oil leak developed at like 20K miles. They eventually replaced the motor under warranty saying it was a porous casting...

Yup, Exactly! I was in agreement with you ;) and I also need to rephrase... that's the rear of the engine not the front ( I was still brewing daily coffee #1 at that time ) so I'd suspect a leak up top on a return line, pooling up on top of the head and dripping down, not the return line...

In my mind I thought it looks more like fuel than oil as well, but hard to say from a distance. Perhaps give the foam pad under the engine a squeeze with a paper towel and see if you can get any liquid out of it. Are you using road diesel or dyed fuel? check the color and smell, if you can get...

I know several others mentioned they would shy away from the IP until 100% sure, but me personally I have seen so many issues with the garbage fuel these days causing IP problems after sitting for a few months, I would just bite the bullet and take it off and go through it, paying close...

Either your gage or your sensor might be bad. The thermostat should stay closed until the engine gets up to about 180, regardless of load or ambient temp, allowing the engine to come up to operating temp. Only other possibility would be if the thermostat is stuck open and the engine isn't...

Well, at this point I'd say the fuel delivery system should be all set. The smoke thing has bothered me from the beginning and it is now seeming more and more like an injection pump or injector issue as CB mentioned. A skipped plunger guide in the pump would have a similar effect, but typically...

Either I'm misunderstanding you, or something isn't adding up. It sounds like you're saying the gage is reading correctly, but the resistance you measured isn't up to spec.? That would indicate either an incorrect reading or an intermittent "dead spot" in the sending unit ( which is usually the...

Yes, you will also see red paint on the outside of the block because the engines usually have red primer under the green paint, so anywhere the paint has come off will often show the red primer. I think the coating on the inside is a different material, but a similar reddish color. it would not...

If it was a porous casting I would suspect you would have noticed it long ago, however, the inside of the block is painted with red Glyptal, so perhaps the paint was sealing it up until recently?? One idea might be to try using a UV dye leak detector, clean everything good, add the dye to the...

You would still see the fuel solenoid banging up and down on the IP lever.... rapidly! The only thing the Oil pressure switch and temp switch do is break the circuit to the Fuel solenoid, if that circuit is broken, even for a millisecond, it's only course of action is to disengage the fuel...

My thoughts on the Oil pressure sensor: If the oil pressure or temp sensor are on their way out the failure mode won't be a stumble or slow-down / bog down then die condition. it will be an intermittent Shut Off condition where you will see the fuel solenoid disengage and push the IP linkage...

Is the oil leak new, or has it existed as long as you have had the gen? If it has always existed, perhaps you have a porous block casting?

I don't recall 100% on the 803, but the 802 has an additional oil drain provision in the block up front below the crank pulley. It is normally plugged with a 3/8" pipe plug. See if the DN4M has that same plug, perhaps it's leaking.

Interesting, I have never gotten an 003 set up for 2HN batteries, always 6TL, I suspect as Guy said, some were swapped with trays from the 002's so the smaller batteries could be used. If your trays are the 002's 2HN trays you can either get them from Tractor Supply, or simply use 51R's from a...

I use thread sealer on all NPT threads including engine sensors and never had an issue with grounding. Usually when you remove the sensor you'll find that probably 90%+ of the sealer was pushed up the threads and hardly anything is left in the threads themselves. The threads will cut right...

The original batteries in an 003 are 6T or 6TL , as others said, way overkill but they are still available. Most O'riley and NAPA stores can get them, average price is $250 or $220 if you have a commercial account.

Are you saying there was a miswire at TB2 that you "corrected" and now you get the overvolt fault? I would put the wire back for now if the gen was running ok before and fix the issue with the K1 contactor first. Try testing K1 using the instructions in the TM, which essentially have you put 24V...

When you were cleaning the pumps did you thoroughly clean all of the check ball assemblies and make sure none were sticking? Your issue of the pump running and suddenly stopping, even with the lines open sounds to me like one of the outfeed check balls is sticking closed, essentially dead...

Just light snow up here, barely a dusting so far, but it just started a little while ago. My daughter uses the same term with our dog when he come in all excited, running around crazy! He's got the Zoomies!