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That sure is interesting! Definitely not an OEM part, although it's not a water separator either.... it looks like a filter element only. Would you be able to share which manual from GM generators you got that number from? Something isn't adding up quite right....

I'm also curious what you got as far as a fuel / water separator for $0.50? The original is just a reusable stack of aluminum discs. Normally you just wash off the discs and reuse. Any chance you have a link to what you purchased?

Sounds about right, a little smoke above 100% load is normal. Smoke will tend to increase slightly as you approach the engine's limit of power.

The other pic is missing the single wire coolant temp. sensor for the gage. The 2 pin sender still installed controls the fault panel.

The E-stop is simply a switch so all it can do is pass through whatever voltage is going into it, so I'd start by making sure the batteries are fully charged and in good condition. If the batteries are older, make sure they have good amperage and not just a surface charge, which will drop...

Jiggler! That's the term I was looking for. (y)

Assuming your thermostat was installed correctly ( spring towards the engine ) I'd say you may have had an air pocket under the thermostat, preventing it from opening correctly. Some thermostats have a small 1/8" hole drilled in the flat body with a little brass ball that acts like a check ball...

See post #3 , it has the link to his Classified add for the rear covers.

Do you see any thin grooves around the shaft where a snap ring may have been? I wonder if the end caps come off ( 3 bolts ) Perhaps there is a snap ring that came off while you were prying on it, that used to be under the top cap?? Just a hunch.....

That's the one! Its very easy to test / verify. When you start the machine, if you have the old style starter with the external linkage for the bexdix, when the engine first starts, watch the linkage while you continue to hold S1 in the crank position. You should see the starter gear disengage...

I believe Jim was talking about the centrifugal disconnect switch located under the little tin cover ( held on with a small wing nut ) to the right of the oil filter. This is the mechanism that disconnects power from the starter motor whenever the motor is spinning more than ~600 RPM. This is...

Yup! the last 3 or 4 I did ( a couple years ago ) all needed 15's and 16's I ended up having to buy on ebay.... some people were asking as much as $200+ for a #16, but got lucky and found a couple cheap ones, but I suspect those days may have passed...

I just rebuilt a pump last week for another SS member who was having the same issues. Running poorly, then bogging down and died. Ended up also having a broken plunger guide. Plunger guide was $52 total after tax and shipping! $12 to ship something smaller than a quarter! @rickf if you...

Let me know if you end up needing any engine parts, I've got 2 or 3 spare engines as well as loose engine parts.

Don't forget these....

There is a ground strap connecting the control cube to the frame, mounted near the wiring connectors ( underneath the control cube ) I think there are also multiple grounds within the harness, also connecting to the terminal block.

Locate the wire on the +stud of the starter. there should be multiple wires on this stud, the battery +, another thick wire leading to the slave plug and a thinner wire that feeds 24+ to one of the terminal blocks inside the control panel. Make sure it is properly connected to the starter+ Also...

This sounds like your Frequency transducer for your Hz gage, not a transformer for the ammeter.