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I have new lift pumps on two trucks start leaking around pinch seam between upper and lower half shortly after installation, hard to get good parts these days. They will let air in system and you will loose prime or suck air. If you drive them every day, you might not have problem starting...

I've never seen a base that was cracked, have 8 CUCVs, 4 in active daily driver work fleet, and have bought and sold several more. Not saying it could not happen... There is a small hole in the base that feeds fuel to pressure sensor. The seal on the sensor will eventually leak. I just...

The stock ones work fine. I still have these on all of mine. There is a fuel pressure switch behind filter on filter base that sometimes need to be removed and hole plugged plugged if it leaks, but that is an easy 5 minute repair. On some CUCVs that problem was already fixed, depending on...

Yes (24V) at TB4-10, yes A1-5, no (0 volts) A1-6 and of course no at K3-X1. If there is nothing between A1-6 and CR1, maybe should check for cold solder joint on CR-1. I'll have to admit I'm one of the many who is more of a mechanic, with limited electrical knowledge apart form basic trouble...

Thanks for the reply, CR-1 seems good, .698 in one direction, OL in other.

I decided to get an 002 out of storage and run, since it has been a while. This is a low hour unit(89) that has been stored in shipping container so no weather or rodents. Cleaned up fuel system, checked IP plunger etc. Hooked up good batteries, primer and heater work, but would not crank. I...

In

Wireing harneses that have not been messed with are underestimated in value until you need one. Anyone parting out a CUCV, MEP, or anything else should remember to pull wire harness before scrapping.

Some related things; If you want to run metal lines, but not worry about rust, try SUR&R copper nickel line. It is also easier to bend and flair than steel. Summit racing has it. Makes good brake line too. I had a lift pump turn out to be the source of an air leak recently, which was a...

Any chance there was a percentage of bio-diesel in the tank? I had some 10-15% bio diesel gell up on me around 15F once.

3/8 deep socket usually does it, unless they are swollen. If they are swollen there are a few approaches to removing, all of which have been discussed many times here. Try to see if they come out normally before you worry about that. I would recommend AC 60 glow plugs, which have are somewhat...

If it fires up and immediately stalls, then can be started after several tries, I would guess an air leak in fuel system. If truck is stock, the first place to look is the fuel pressure sensor in the fuel filter base. This sensor is pretty much useless unless you have a bit of obsolete test...

I understand that. The point I was trying to make is that Gen2 light and exciter circuit are 24V, that is why it requires a relay, and why the LMC circuit will probably not work. If you want to verify this, unplug the bottom center fuse, fuse #12 I think. Below is Warthog's helpful thread on...

I'm pretty sure that will not work in a CUCV. Civilian 6.2 chevy trucks with warning lights covered oil, temp, alt & 4 wheel drive. I could be remebering wrong, but I'd call LMC and confirm what is in the 4 warning lamps before ordering or attempting to install in stock truck. The CUCV has...

That is for the wire for the tach sensor in the STE/ICE test machine.

Probably time to take out the cluster, clean some contacts and check some bulbs. It is not difficult, but can take some time if your have not done before. I usually take the dash pad off, makes it easier to get the speedo cable off back of cluster, and get a look at heat control too. If...

If it were my truck, I guess my focus would be try to get off street somehow, at this point.

Perhaps now is a good time for you to familiarize yourself with the TMs for this truck. Specifically TM 9-2320-289-20, this is page F-4. All this and more available right here on forum in TM section. There are a couple of errors in these diagrams, but I don't think here. Looks like...

Is the purple & white wire still hooked up to relay, or do you get voltage from wire even if not connected to anything? If it is still hooked to relay, it is probably a defective or ground switched relay. Or maybe hooked up wrong. If you get voltage and wire is not hooked to anything...

You would do yourself a favor to have some basic test gear, even a test lite. Also might not be good to assume dash light good by visual inspection of element. Can't help further with info provided, good luck.