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Wires #75 are for the brake lights, they have nothing to do with the brake warning lamp Unplug the wire from the brake equalizer and see if the light goes out. The brake warning light is only connected to the parking brake switch and the brake equalizer. The equalizer is the aluminum block next...

If you stop and pee in Papalote they will arrest you, there are no businesses :ROFLMAO: In fact in Bee County if you are walking down or stopped on the highway the cops will check you out, not allot going on around here....

I have a 404 that I re-powered in the early 90s with an OM617 5 cylinder turbo diesel. That engine needs work so I am wondering if there are any other viable options now?

This will also let you see if any IP lines are not getting any fuel, you will not be able to tell if there is enough pressure to fire the injector but you should see similar results as far as how much fuel comes of of each line. If it has always had the "mis" you might want to make sure all the...

On the brake switch, pull the wire from the brake equalizer and ground it to see if the light comes on.

You can disassemble an old battery

Maybe, maybe not most of those locations have US basses and all those countries use the HMMWV

I do not think so.

What did the fuel filter look like? if it was dirty or filled with gunk then the input screen may be clogged, you should see some flow from the return even if the governor is stuck in the stop position. You may also try feeding the IP with a mixture of diesel and MM oil.

What year is the truck? Have you tried J C Taylor?

The IP is a "distributor" type of pump, while possible it is not very likely it would be able to "fire" some cylinders and not all of them. Break each line loose and see if you can figure out which ones are not firing, this would be indicated by a lack of RPM drop when the line is "busted loose"

You really do not need to tag the wires, they all have ID tags and there is no guarantee they were connected correctly to begin with, that is what schematics are for.

I have had that happen several times, I find it easier to just drill out the head and when the trans/engine cooler is off there is plenty of threads left, add some heat and they come right out.

Of course make sure there is nothing else connected to the "outside" of that stud but for the 1-0 cable to the alt.

Yes it can, just run a 1-0 cable from the extra stud to the buss bar, also see if you can locate wires 2A and 56B (could be 5A)

Start by counting the big wires going to the buss bar, you should have one to the starter, one to the alt, one to the slave connector and if you have the AUX. power connector behind the pass seat one to there.

So it looks like there should be a wire going from the buss bar to the 200A alt, it is marked as a 1-0

OK that makes sense, I am the one confused, a snapshot of my life now :oops:

EDITED to seem like I am coherent I have never had my hands on one but the extra post would make sense, there should be a large cable coming out of the engine harness for the 200A, the extra one if it has one can be abandoned (properly) Here is the trans supplement it has the wire numbers etc...

If your truck had a 400A alt. then you will have two positive cables, one inside the engine harness and one completely independent of the engine harness, you have the 12V breaker and 12V relay for the trans in that wire mix behind the seat, you will need to keep that.