Search results

Thanks Bjorn, I typed in the PN for the connectors in a yahoo search and the newark site came right up. Time to start looking for a heater.

Bjorn, are the connectors for the wiring available? From what I've seen before the control box can be made, but the bigger issue seems to be connecting to the heater unit itself.

Another thought is you could put in an m939 t-case. They are air shift. One issue is your not allowed to use low range in reverse, or bad things can happen.

No idea on the parts. I would start downloading TM's till you get one w/ a parts listing and start searching. There have got to be quite a few t-cases out there that pop out of high range, but have a good sprag unit you could buy.

Ahh, well you hadn't mentioned yours was worn. I think the most issues are getting the sprag wound up. Like if you roll backwards when the sprag is engaged forward. I personally don't like the sprag either, but haven't found any other options. I do have an extra t-case (pops out of high...

The 5-ton case is huge. The M35 is much smaller and I imagine not rated for the greater loads the 5-ton is capable of. Have you thought of doing the MWO to turn the sprag on and off? (It is just a valve to shut off the air supply to the sprag)

You probably wouldn't be able to power the rear most set of tandems off of the front set as during certain articulation situations the driveshaft angles could prove to be too extreme between the rear axle on the front set and the front axle on the rear set.

Most people don't think the U.S. Mainland (lower 48 ) was ever attacked during WWII, but the Japs sent over high altitude balloon bombs in an effort to strike fear into Americans. Several caused some small forest fires, and many fell and did not detonate. I don't remember if there were any...

Oh yeah, where in the U.P are you at?

A 2nd t-case is going to make your gearing lower, not higher. What you want to look into is a gearvendors overdrive, or something similar. Another option is to put higher gears in the axles, and do a doubler t-case. That way you can have higher highway gears, and can use the double low range...

I'm also interested in all of the front lug nuts you have.

I'd just be interested in the locker units if you wanted to take them apart.

Ooh, Detroits in the rears maybe?

Consider the heater sold, even if it is not 100%, if most of the parts are there I will take it. Especially the M809 specific parts. The control box is a black box on the drivers side firewall, it controls the power and starting circuits I believe. I know it won't crank if the box is bad...

Do any have an M809 correct heater kit? Could also use a control box, and depending on what you do with the motors, I need to replace one of the large oil lines that run from the Pan to (I think) the cooler.

I'm going to do a muffler delete on my 818 if I ever get everything else in order first. If it's too loud, maybe I can run the exhaust out under the truck and exit behind the cab, like the 939 series.

There is also the location difference between the M809 series and previous models. I think the earlier trucks basically use a Deuce heater kit. While in the M809 the correct kit places the heater on the passenger side, has some different brackets for mounting, and the diverter box has the...

a ductless a/c / heating unit??

Can you even get that much weight in that tiny little dump box?

Someone on this site suggested running the engine up to full operating temp, and then breaking them loose. Letting the truck fully cool down and installing the nipples. I tried this and it worked for me. YMMV