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It looks like you've done this before... Love the in-process pics

The homework has already been done; check the sticky thread on the '5 ton and up' main page, 6th thread down

I took a tour of the BP refinery at Cherry Point and they said the final product (gasoline) was generic and they would add a bucket of Chevron or Shell or whatever additive to it before delivering to a gas station.

I've had cast iron water jackets welded up in the past but it all depends on if that crack is accessible to the arc rod. Looks like access would be tough...

Ahh, now I see it. Is that something you repair or replace?

This job is covered in TM 9-2320-260-34-1 section 10. They list a special remover tool 5120-378-4301 but they don't show what that tool looks like.

So was the breach in part of the water jacket?

Doesn't he like to add .120" spacers to run rpms in the danger zone? His engines probably don't last very long.

I found this little snippet explaining the OZ in a little more detail.

What is OZ rubber? I haven't heard of this term but I've had my suspicions that military rubber was exempt from the EPA on their quest to eradicate all of the good stuff that actually works.

Sounds exactly like my M813 before I replaced the inner shaft seal. If you can make a contraption similar to what I did it's a little easier work than a slide hammer. There are a few really good writeups on the process and most of them are in the 2.5 ton section...

All crew cabs are custom made by joining the original cab with an extra donor cab - there were no factory crew cab 5-tons that I know of.

Build it and they will come...

I found a difference between the 5-ton and the HEMTT wheels (on my wheels at least) that may explain the difference in torque values: the 5-ton wheels are using deformed-thread lock nuts, where as the HEMTT wheels are using just plain flange nuts without any locking feature.

This is true. A CH-47 or CH-53 could also extract the sucken truck.

This is pages 2-113 & 2-114 from printed TM-9-2320-260-20 July 1972 in the electrical troubleshooting section.

There is also a #27 spider harness which is the power to the electric gauges and is keyed hot by the battery switch.

Sweet! Any chance you measured voltage for bright vs dim? I don't plan on cutting anything. I'm hoping to unplug 569 from the pre-heater switch, plug it into a wye, then add a short section of wire from the wye back to the switch and then another section of wire to a USB port.

I've been wanting to add a 12V charging port for cell phones on my M813 also and I've been entertaining the idea of splicing in to the "glow plug" circuit #569 with a wye connector just before the switch since it already carries 12V to the dash. Not sure if it's a sound idea but it would be...

This is just a guess, but I'm thinking that circuit #40 might output 2 different voltages based on whether the light switch is on Panel Bright vs Panel Dim. Not sure what your converter would do if it were receiving 12 volts, say, instead of 24 V. A volt meter in that free socket would confirm...