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My head hurts after reading this.
So I had a bad voltage regulator. Got one from Will and all is good now. But----- as I am replacing it I look at the Alt. belts and they are a little loose. So I dive in to make a adjustment. Who the **** puts a bolt under a belt ? So I take the water pump...
Yes Will. Took power from bottom fuel valve stud (24V) still no LED's. I will go and redo the tests today to be sure I did not miss something. Battery's have been on the charger overnight just in case. If it fails the test again then I need to decide to replace the system with 'Double Alt' or...
Still no luck with the cheep Ebay regulator. Still no volts. Will retest the system tomorrow. Been using the Niehoff test's. Is their a better test in the TM's ? What TM and what page ? I'm kind of lost trying to find it.
Been think of going with the Heidebrink system ? Why stay with a Military...
I have lost my voltage regulator and their are some out their but the $$$ seam high ? So I have been looking at the wiring of the regulator. It looks like the field is controlled but only on the 28V side. But nothing on the 14V side ?
When my replacement regulator gets here I'm going to pull...
Just had a 20 volt reading on the dash. Then it was back to 26? Next start poor. Lots of clicking then a crank ?
Now back to low charge.
Still need to trouble shoot.
Ideas ? Will a bad battery start this ?
Thanks, Randy
Has anyone found a better system ? And / or what do I tell the drive line shop to do ?
I have mismatched tires (all different OD's and 2 different manufactures ) and the old drive shaft that was changed ( D ). And I have a vibration that sets in at about 35 mph. It comes and go's at times so...
Door handles back in and working. Weird to need keys to get in .
Been working on some tools for the box build. Finishing up the table saw with a new "T" square system and router. Lots of wood working coming my way.
Even made shelves. I know, boring.
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