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That's a pretty epic horn! Someone's gonna soil their britches when that goes off

Thank you - I like it a lot! Too bad I didn't hit the jakes in the video, but I will next time 😁

The gauge could be crapping out but it's suspicious that it only bounces when the alternator is spinning.

Beautiful day for a drive, but the camera memory ran out before I could get to a place where jake brakes are allowed...next time

Anything is possible. It's an old alternator with a new voltage regulator that was burnt up inside...

The title describes what I'm seeing which is a new behavior ever since I replaced the voltage regulator. The needle bounces back and forth from far left up to actual engine temp with the engine/alternator running. When I shut off the engine but keep the master switch on the temp gauge is...

Parts have been accumulating for adding a coolant filter including the Napa 4019 filter base, Donaldson filter, MIL-DTL-6000D military 5/8" coolant hose, various fittings and clamps. I designed up an adapter plate out of 3/8" stainless to attach to the outside of the oil cooler housing...

Not sure if it's the main culprit or not but when I was installing the turbo I found that the ground wire for the alternator was completely loose. Barely attached and about to fall off the frame stud.

Success! A shop vac, a flat screw driver, and some electronics cleaner got it all cleaned up inside and the new regulator went back on. I got everything reinstalled, cleaned all connections, checked the voltage at wire 568 and then started it up. I was relieved to see the needle of the gauge...

While disassembling my voltage regulator to replace it I found what looks like Apollo 1 and smells like the best materials that the EPA banned decades ago. It looks like the fire? originated at the #5 terminal and made everything else nice & crispy. This alternator still works pumping out 33.2...

Maybe she could throw you a line?

From the outside It looks as though I could replace the voltage regulator on my M813's alternator while installed on the truck but I'm not sure what I'll get into once the cover is off. Are the wires easily identified? Am I getting into a fool's errand by thinking of doing this while installed?

Here's an update since the install about the two problems I've had so far: The first problem was that 2 of the 3 electrical male spade connectors snapped off most likely from enbrittlement. They arrived bent, I straightened them, they got bent during painting, then straightened, and bent again...

Thanks for the numbers Will. I looked through that TM Wes listed but it only mentioned torque values for some other bolts on the pump. My problem is that it doesn't leak at idle or off-idle but it does at higher rpm while driving when I can't see it. There's actually fuel leaking everywhere...

I need to know the torque specs for the (4) 1/4" bolts that secure the aluminum fuel button cover / housing to the PT pump. I can't find them anywhere - does anyone know?

My coworker doesn't do much online stuff but i thought you guys would like this one. It's his 3rd or 4th truck and it has 64" springs, 40" Nitto tires, original engine, but lots of suspension mods.

Today I finished plumbing ducting from the heater core to the cab and I got the wiring reconnected. Tested it out and the air blows pretty strong to the floor and "ok" to the defrost. Hopefully the ducting touching the resistors won't hurt anything...

My stock generator (M813) is also charging in the red (always has been) and the volt meter confirms that red = no bueno; it's overcharging at 33.2 volts...

I took the same route for a second test drive now with the #17 button and it feels like I went from a loaded truck to an empty truck 😁 On the same incline where it was 9 psi/800° it was now 11+ psi/800°. I'm not really running around to do data logging I'm just noting what I saw at a glance -...

Now that my turbo installation is complete this heater project is back on the front burner. I've had the heater/defroster diverter box mounted for awhile and now I have it plumbed to the engine bay after cutting a 4" hole in the firewall. Part of hooking up this heater will include...