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Installation was a very tricky ordeal especially the coiled up air tubing. I have (2) smooth 18 GA. wires with female water proof ends, (1) 14 GA. Prestolite power wire which is kinda sticky and doesn't slide too well, (1) pyro wire harness, and the coiled air tubing to all go through the 7/8"...
I needed a grommet that was at least Ø1/2" I.D. and ended up with a 5/8" I.D. x 7/8" O.D. grommet and getting a 7/8" hole into the dash was not easy. Even with the windshield forward my hole saw and my drill bits were too short to reach so after trying a half-mangled hole with a drill bit I...
I tried on the gauge pod for size with the gauges mounted up and added some female wire ends for the gauge lights and gauge power. I used some Autometer 3214 red bulb covers to make the gauges illuminate red like the others. The SW pyro requires outside power which is a bummer but not a big...
Before I had the pod welded up I enlarged the gauge holes with the dremel tool and sand paper rolls to get the oval shape needed for the gauges to angle over. I also took some material off of the legs of the gauge mounting brackets since they would be angled over along with the gauges.
I used...
Well, the corona virus freakout delayed the forming of the part from 1 week to 2 months so after a hefty wait the shear & brake guys got the flat pattern bent up using special roller dies. The gauge hole opening was so close to the bend on the front of the pod that even the roller dies could...
In preparation for a turbo install I added a pyrometer and a manifold pressure gauge to my truck in a gauge pod I designed to fit center dash between the defroster outlets. I wanted my gauges to be within easy viewing and I also wanted the add-on to look pretty stock. Below are the step by...
I finally installed my pyrometer & boost gauge pod I designed and now my cab is starting to look like a cockpit!
Here is a link to the write-up I did on this gauge pod in case anyone wants to see the step by step details...
I've been looking into wiring details to power a future pyrometer and I found more details on this wire 27. It looks like it's an unused branch of the 5 wire harness connector that can be found on the back of the gauges.
The 809s weren't mentioned here that I found but 939s sure are; are 809s less prone to roll overs than 939s? Smaller dually tires (typically) and a lower body or are all singled out MVs the main concern?
Do thimbles usually get the same torque as their hex nut outers? I've seen my 5 ton thimbles permanently distort when torquing them down and that doesn't seem right.
Will, thanks for that info.
So this NAPA stuff is a pinkish color and does mention an extended life of sorts so I think I'll steer clear of it. The Cummins stuff sounds nice but is a bit on the spendy side.
Found the culprit to the rear head not shutting off right away; broken inner control valve spring on cylinder 6.
New spring | old spring (cyl. 5) | outer spring
Cylinder 5 spring | cylinder 6 spring
Just to confirm: we should be AVOIDING the low silicate, wet liner formulas?
I'm about to start by coolant system flush and I was eye-balling this stuff:
@simp5782
I think there are 3 bolts that you loosen to loosen the fan hub and then there is another bolt kind of between the alternator and the block below the water pump that points in toward the block and has a large jamb nut on it. Back off the jamb nut and then tighten that bolt and as it tightens it...