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You need to have that turbo rebuilt.

There's nothing complicated or scary here. Remove the clip on the bottom, cut the safety wire, remove 2 screws, and pull strait out. Be sure not to loose the little tit on the end of the fuel control rod. You will understand when you remove it.

Do you have an a2 or a3. Cause an a2 has an electric in tank fuel pump to prime the fuel system. Are you sure yours is working?

There may very well be a gasket for that location. I just haven't seen one for sale. Rtv works fine though.

A flick of the finger should so it. You should easily be able to push the bottom towards the firewall and when released it should snap back to the 7 o clock position on its own. No, on is not on, in this case. This is not an on/off switch. This actually controls fuel delivery at all rpms.

The soft lines are just the fuel return lines. They don't require bleeding. Neither should the hard lines. You need to remove and clean the fuel control rod. You shouldn't have any real resistance when you move it. Another possibility is the button fell off the bottom of your hydraulic...

There isn't really a gasket for the knuckle to spindle I have seen. I just use rtv. Works fine.

No the drive axles have the spindles welded to the axle housing. Modern otr trucks and medium duty trucks are the same way. Matter of fact the spicer axle on my kodiak has hubs built almost identical to the rockwell hubs. Difference is oil bath bearings.

Yours come apart the same way. Just most people don't take their drum off like that. I personally don't recommend it since you can't check the bearings this way. But it certainly is a different way of doing it.

It's not an inspection cover per say. It's there so you can adjust your brakes with a feeler guage.

Haha. Or maybe he was referencing that you could bolt the spindle sleeve to the flange?

Interesting since effectively everything went to oil bath bearings or sealed wheel bearings.

Huh? The rivets on the rear axle only hold the brake back plate on. The spindle is made into the housing.

O I'm sure something could be made that didn't require removal and disassembly of the axle. Unfortunately I have neither the time or the equipment to do such a thing.

Steve6x6x6 already did it. But it required machining of the spindle. As in put the entire axle housing into a lathe.

I wish the inner seal would contain gear oil. It actually lubricates the bearings better than grease.

It would work. Question is where to put it.

Exactly. Even after doing that you can watch the air pressure guage fall if you hold the horn button down. My buddy put a set on his bobber. Those things use some air. But they are cool.

You will empty the deuce air tanks rapidly with a train horn.

Yup. Beats bleeding the brakes just to change an axle boot.