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On a good day.

Haha sorry when I used the harmonic balancer I had the rad out. It's been a long day.

Either put a socket on the harmonic balancer or put the t case in neutral and wedge a pry bar into the u joint on the prop shaft. Put the transmission into 4th gear.

I'm the one who sells the seals. Gimpy had the clips that hold the button on the hh. Don't know if he has any left. If not you can get them directly from ambac.

Pull your hh. Sounds like the button fell off. Also try cranking it over with your foot to the floor on the accelerator. I have to give mine a little throttle to get it to start.

Though you can drive the boat too. If you dare.

I'm gonna make you buy the beer next time I'm down.

Come a little further north and I'll let you drive mine if I can drive yours.

Looks like a sureflo diaphragm pump.

Huh. The seal retainer will be the strongest part of the transmission lol.

Eh...his goal is 200 hp. I'm not really concerned with the bottom end. I'm more worried about head flex/lift and egt's. These heads really aren't well designed for flow and heat dissipation. That and many people have gone down the rabbit hole of chasing different turbos. Even the ones who...

Not quite true. If you had them too loose then they will wear a groove in the races and tapered bearing rollers. They will prematurely wear out. Then if you remove them and then retorque them and they aren't riding in the same groove they will burn up in a couple of miles. Granted this...

You want to feel a slight tick when you rock the wheels after torquing the nuts. This leaves room for expansion when the bearings heat up. Torque the inner nut until the wheel binds when you try and spin it. Then back it off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. It should spin free with noticeable slack...

Easy guys. This isn't about whose appendage is bigger. Let's just help the op get his truck back on the road. (Or in the mud, whichever)

Not just a new head gasket. I was thinking custom copper with fire rings or an MLS gasket.

I would think you would need a better head gasket also. Multifuel heads flex a lot as it is.

Yes, put the hub assembly on, then outer bearing, then seal, then the first lock nut. The rubber lip on the seal should face the bearing.

I'd be concerned with lifting the heads at that much boost.

1. The grease inside the hub is extra grease for the wheel bearings. 2. I like to put a light coat of grease on the spindle just for rust prevention. There isn't anything that rotates on the spindle so it doesn't need to be lubed. 3. The outer seal goes on after the outer wheel bearing is...

O and I did not use murphys soap. I used a similar product to rema tip top tire lube/bead packing compound. It's a light brown substance that has a similar consistency to bearing grease.