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Looks like you are down to step 9(b)!

There is no bleeder on the M/C. You bleed the M/C, line between the M/C and airpack, and the hydraulic portion of the airpack through a bleeder on the top of the hydraulic head on the airpack. The -34P TM does not give a breakdown of the AHU, so either it was not serviced at the DSU/GSU level...

RE: Airpack pooped out, who With or without air pressure, the brake pedal should not go to the floor. That was the whole point of the air assist, you would still have brakes if you lost air pressure. Sounds like you are either losing brake fluid someplace or your M/C is shot. Prior to this...

Many places, like Lowes and most craft shops, sell stencil adhesive in a spray can. You apply it to the BACK of the stencil, position the stencil where you want it, spray your marking color, then peel the stencil off. Gives a perfect paint stenciling job, no fuzzy lines where the paint...

To what "Lansing Base" are you referring? Obviously Lansing MI, but what base do they have there? This must be a GSA truck, GL only sells in Michigan from Selfridge ANG as far as I know.

The cover can be installed without the troop SEATS themselves, but you must have troop seat LENGTH stakes along with corners and bows. If your GMA cover seems too short someone may have substituted longer stakes and a custom cover for more inside headroom. This was sometimes done to maintenance...

Here are a couple of pics from TM 9-2320-316-34P which should help. It even shows your "C" turbo!

Leave the switch in the stop lamp position all the time, it doesn't draw any current (unless the stop lamps are on). Yes, I think we all seem to forget to center the turn signal switch after a turn. I know I've forgotton at least once or twice!

The front and rear hub assemblies are the same - FSN 10896708, Wheel, Hub, Vehicular. The wheel bearings are the same front/rear. The inner bearing (cone) is a #3994, the outer bearing (cone) is a #320, the cup (raceway) is the same inner/outer/front/rear, #3920. The wheel seals are a different...

The front tires seem to suck though!

Yes, same P/N front and rear, the only difference front to rear is that the front is already "flipped".

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Holy strong bows Batman! Awesome truck. I've seen pics of the M938 Lacrosse Missile launcher before, but this is the first time I've heard of a F-16 jet launcher. I wonder if they install special heat resistant glass in the windshield? David Doyle, where are you? We need...

I guess I'll have to order a new fuel pump gasket and see if I can lower my fuel pickup. I don't THINK I have a rust or sludge problem in the tank. I just hate being nearly out of useable fuel when my fuel gauge still reads 1/4 tank of fuel!

Good luck on the bed swap, I well understand the budget problem! That always seems to pop up when renovating "green iron"!

Ken - still don't understand what the "pics" showing us. Is this a drink holder cup attached horizontally to the outside of the door? Seems to me that a drink holder cup attached vertically inside the cab would be more useful.

The only problems I see with "Crazy Idea #3" is first you'd have to find a propane/natural gas water heater for you processor and them somehow duct it to use the glycerin burner as the heat source. Then you'd have to figure out a way to use the thermostat to regulate the glycerin heater to keep...

OK, whats with the pic of the wheel with 5 lug nuts instead of 6? Is than a maintenance trailer you picked up that you didn't tell us about?

Great looking truck. I remember your earlier posting about it. Don't hold your breath on the EUC though, I won a couple of engines in Columbus last August, the EUC didn't clear until December. It DOES help to keep on your GL reps butt, that seems to keep the process moving along!

Nice looking truck. Gotta repaint that hood though! How did you end up with a stake body, a M51A2 should be a dumper. Did somebody mongrelize it for you along the way?

A). Wire brush the connectors at BOTH ends of the ground wire between the fuel sending unit and the frame. Coat both ends with CONDUCTIVE grease (NOT dielectric grease, I generally use Plumbers silicone grease, though most any decent chassis grease will work) and reassemble. If gauge still is...