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Well that's a strange stepped stud, hard to tell but looks like there might be a bevel washer where that nut came out. Looks like the nut had to be epoxied while the stud was installed as well.

Soo....is this normal or a really odd repair?

Checked some voltages: Battery voltage: 12.48-12.51 for all 4 Ignition on voltage - at batteries: 12.33V Cranking voltage min - at batteries: 10.13V At terminal under PDP and at ABS ecm between both +12v and both ground wires mirrored the voltages at PDP Ignition on: 11.34V Cranking voltage...

Well checked under the PDP and found a lot of power distribution stud nuts finger tight. Also some corrosion to clean off. Found paint under the chassis ground stud as well. Fixed everything but still same situation with ABS. The "ignition voltage" is still reading under the "battery voltage"...

Using the stock pump, waiting on a vented pump cap to arrive. Nice solution on the mount. I'm going to see if I can add the plate that went over the air/oil pump back on. Would give lots of protection and I like using it as a step :)

The box will be about where that cross rail is in your picture, looks like still a few inches to that beam.

I did that the other day, although I just tried to install it as fast as possible to save as much coolant as I could....works okay, was only a few seconds but you're right it comes out real fast!

Cut some isolaters for the box to frame interface from HDPE. Hopefully box to be mounted this week. Removed the air over oil pump and about 8 hydraulic lines I won't need (suspension cylinders, feed and return from aoo pump). Did have some issues with the spare tire cylinder locking up but...

Makes sense why my cab never comes down straight and shifts when it hits the latch.

Seriously? Dang I need to look at my truck, I never considered they would have such an imbalance. Sorry completely my mistake.

All A0 and A1 FMTV have two cab lift hydraulic cylinders Edit: nope they don't! Just one

Cab lift uses two cylinders.

Yep, same numbers, I did it for both 16" stroke on cab, plus the tire 18" so 50" total 50"*.7854= 39.2 in^3

Looks like there is one with the same specs and a 65in^3 reservoir

Yep saw your video, nicely done. Looks like 35 in^3 is the usable volume of the stock pump: Cab lift 2x 1"dia x 16(max)" stroke Tire lift 1"dia x 18(max)" stroke (16*2+18)*pi*0.5^2 = 39.3 in^3 needed for both at full extension The actual stroke is a little less that then values above but I...

I've seen a people do this a little but not too much quantitative info. Can the manual pump supply enough fluid with its tiny reservoir for both the cab raise and tire lower? Just from glancing at the volume, seems like it would run out of fluid with just one of these operations-if it could...

Oh for sure, but I'm going to see where the tires actually end up when crossed up and with the load I have. Then will adjust as needed. With a 5 spring leaf pack I may never flex enough...although spring rates on this bogie suspension aren't as simple a calculation as on the single rear wheel...

Bump stop is 7.5" away, box will be 8.75" away from tire. I'm going to see what kind of flex I can get under testing once I get some more weight on it. I will have the option to raise the box (but want to avoid that due to cg), I also have significant amount of material I can remove from the...

Boys stole my cribbing to build a fort (will use to lift the shipping container. Cut out the section needed to clear the transmission.

I think I'll be okay, I have the frame doubler unlike that 1088. I will have ~2" of clearance after bump stop contact. If really crossed up it could get close though. Do you have a measumet from top of your tire to the box? Any issues with rubbing?