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The TH400 has a 32 spline output shaft. The 700R4 has 27. The easiest way to swap in a 700R4 is to use a 27 spline 208 transfer case and adapter. No expensive conversion parts and it's all bolt up. Otherwise a 32 spline output shaft has to be installed in the 700 to mate it to the original...
Don't know if Lucas will stop oil leaks. It coats internal engine parts preventing dry starts for vehicles that may sit for long periods of time so it may stay with the seals. The increased viscosity may also help. Try using any name brand rear main seal leak additive. It will soften and swell...
Yea, great fuel milage too. The Duramax and Cummins guys may leave me at the light, but when my Banks turbo finally spins up, I can reel them in and stay with them, No problem. As far as the 700 goes, I had mine rebuilt with all the HD parts you can get. Once I get it out of 1st, it will throw...
You can run any straight weight oil in a diesel engine depending on the temprature range of where you live. A friend of mine worked on the Alaskan pipeline in the 70s, they ran 10w series 3 motor oil in their Caterpillar machines In winter temps. In your climate, I would go back to 15/40 arround...
The fan driven cooler really brings temps down nicely, BTW, great turbo build thread and great photos. You should market the full crank brace you fabbed or build them on a per order basis, I'd buy one! I have a rebuilt 1982 red block I might turbo when a boatload of money falls out of the sky.
You must have wired the solinoid right as the starter is spinning. Tap, I mean tap on the starter lightly with a medium sized ball peen hammer while trying to start it. In park, E brake mashed to the floor. You may have gotten the starter solinoid hot, now IT sticks. See how you have to listen...
If you go back to your thead on 7-24-12, "New starter confusion" In my post #9 and the last in the thread, I had advised you to perform the doghead mod before you install a new starter. That being said, You purchased the same original equpment crap relay from CUCV electrical. The doghead relay...
The Summit price is still cheaper than my local mom n pop parts store. I use Jegs, which every one hates for some reason. I get my parts in three days, four max. they also gave me a free hat! LOL.
That $62 dampener will do you just fine. You will have to rent or borrow a puller if you don't have one, ask for the installation tool also. DO NOT hammer the dampener on with a lump hammer and a block of wood. Never should you hammer on the crankshaft for any reason. good luck.
The fluid dampener will suposedly last for the life of the truck, whatever that means considering our trucks are on overtime as it is. It's more for guys hopping up their 6.2s with turbos that don't belong on them or marine injectors, that sort of thing. doing these things to a 6.2 is pointless...
Those a/c condensors are really hard to get under the distributor cap too. Ask them for 20in wheels,headers and a tuner intake for a Honda civic and they got you covered. Oh don't forget the raspy annoying no10 steam can sticking out the back.aua How do i know this? the napa kids have them...
A good parts guy will ask you two questions, Is it auto? AC? that's it. I give that info right away. I don't know what happend to Napa, but it's not good. Auto Zone is even worse. On the other hand, the local Advance store, beleve it or not is capable of cross referencing part nos. the first...
I never had any luck trying to cross reference any part numbers at Napa. My local Napa is staffed by enexperinced kids that are computer savvy but know little about parts. I orderd my Kats block heater there, the kid said,"a what" and found it after about ten min. Their system is vehicle...