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Just as it is on most any other diesel of that era. Now is the time to add marine injectors and a couple turbos.

Is there an air flow restriction? Even with the nut backed off, it shouldnt get to even 1300.

Right, once you adjust the top screw, it is basically pointless to adjust the star wheel. You will gain plenty with the top screw.

Star wheel doesn't have to be adjusted if you are going to adjust the fuel screw on top. If you adjust only the star wheel, the EGT may possibly go up 20 degrees.

1350 sustained. 1500 for about 10 seconds, or 1800 for 3 seconds.

No. You adjust it while it's off, then test fire it.

A 50 would work at max fueling, but still may need slightly bigger injectors. You will probably need intercooler one way or the other. The better you can keep it cool, the less stressful it is driving it.

A 50 would be great. Just needs the fuel to spool it.

Going to an '80 by itself is too many steps up. You could use the 80 in a compound setup, along with the stock HX40. Even still, an HX60 would pair better with the 40.

That is a good upgrade. It just seems a tad too much. The stock compressor inlet is 60mm, and this one is 67. That's quite a lot. I was thinking in the 62mm range. You may find that you need marine injectors with that upgrade.....now that would be a shame to be forced in to the 400hp range...

Do a few more turns on that screw. Some pumps need like 10 turns to make a difference in power. On a big engine, 30hp is also around 75 pounds more torque. You will feel that much diference. Jumping up by 100hp is a whole other can of money worms....but still possible. I would think the...

Thanks Clarke. I just try to show everyone that it's not such a scary thing to do the adjustments. Still waiting on someone to make a how-to video on the rear fuel rate adjustment. Any takers?

Not that I know of. It's in really good shape too. Last I heard from them was not long after I was there taking those 2 pix.

The nut is the slotted part in the middle. Clockwise tightens them, and they only go in quarter turn increments.

Sounds to me like the gov springs are too tight. If that idle spring(biggest one of the gov spring set) is too tight, it cant recover in time to keep it from stalling. It also makes it take some extra cranking to start, unless you push on the pedal a little. Back it off 1 click, and it should be...

You can, but the idle comes up with it and makes it a little harder to start. Plus, the pedal gets pretty sensitive.

2700, you got a ways to go. For getting up to speed, 3200. For sustained, 2800.

One secret is to smack it from the top with a hammer. I actually dont even bother with the star wheel. You can more than make up for it with the forward screw. If you back out the screw more, it should come out of the hole, and spool up pretty quick.

The fuel screw on top is for low rpm/excess fuel for a starting aid. Once it gets to a certain rpm, it goes back to factory fuel rate. The real fuel adjustment is covered on page 6. It's a pdf file you can download and print. Do those nuts and it will be happy.

That's a fuel plate for a P - pumped 8.3, which most 900 series are an MW-pump.