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Or send me a PM. I can walk you thru most of the hop up stuff.

Yes. and yes. Plus, the 4k spring will only get it to about 3400. It is just the same way the 12valve is done.

Back a few years ago(when a 12 valve with 370s was cool), I did lots of reading on people's driving experiences with different brands of GSK. Most favored the set from Piers, but the best manners are from the Pac Brake kit. That, and KT has them for the best price. I have been thinking of...

http://ktperformance.net/i-6684434-pacbrake-governor-springs-dodge-1994-98-5-9l-cummins-12v-3000-4000rpm.html

The MW pumps alone cant make that kind of power without serious $$,$$$. They can only be had with 10mm plungers, and Bosch doesnt have listings for anything bigger(not that I found anyway). The 10mm plungers dont make very big power. Adding marine injectors will gain a little bit on a stock pump...

Dropping the idle is only one more adjustment.

You can also use the nut on the alternator. it will only let you go in reverse, but it's pretty easy to spin from there. It's a 7/8 or 15/16" socket.

The idle speed should not change at all. The only adjustment that changes it is the gov springs.

Yes, those 2 are a quick & easy mod that you can feel.

You can adjust the pre-boost screw, I just dont worry about it. You can make up for it with the screw on top of the pump(low rpm excess fuel screw). I have the socket, and will mail it out, but MUST get it back, since it's the only one I have. That one to ignore is the pre-boost adjustment. As...

Ok..Lets see if I can clear it up. The full fuel stud with 2 nuts: On the very back of the pump there is 2 screws, which one is tamper proof(round head). The first hard part is getting that screw out. Vice grips or chisel works. Get those 2 screws out, and pull off the tin cover, and the screw...

I threw in my suggestions, and changed priority. Please test drive after every step so you can learn which adjustment is doing what.

If you havent adjusted the screw on top, dont do it until you get the rear adjustment. Then, you will have a better idea of smoke control. If you already adjusted it, dont worry. Take it for a test drive after the rear adjustment, and see if you can live with the smoke. If it's too much, adjust...

If it's an MDF pump, where does it say that on the ID tag? All I ever see on them is MW. Not doubting you, just making sure I'm really reading what I'm reading.

I just give you a hard time, because you are an 88M. No offense, it was put in my head back in AIT that 63B's have to pick on the 88M's. On a serious note, I really like that BAE turbo upgrade to the HX45. Even the older trucks can have fun with the H2E's turbo.

Those are for the P-pump, and you can make your own plate with even more power than the aftermarket plates. A #0 plate is pure fuel at all rpm. Cost you a little time on a grinder.

On an otherwise stock setup, the compounds wont gain much power. When paired correctly, the EGT drastically drops at full power. It really wont be of much benefit without more rpm and a bit more fuel. The stock turbo can hold up to the fuel being cranked up. The compounds will be more prone to...

It's a tamper proof screw. You have to ruin it to get it off. The head is smooth and round. A chisel can work to make a slot, until you can get a screwdriver in there to take it out. Then, you can replace it with a new 4mm coarse thread screw/bolt.

After talking with my pump guy(he even builds tractor puller pumps), he says 400+hp for sure, possibly close to 500 with the MW pump with 10mm plungers, all the adjustment tricks he knows, good injectors, and a bigger turbo. As said before, the drive train will snap pretty easily with big power...

I noticed on the one I did that the air restrictor gauge started coming up. Everything was checked, and even pulled off all the extra pipes for the fording kit, but no difference. You would have to go to a much bigger element and box to get more flow. As long as it keeps the EGT under control...