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I was speaking in general terms, most folks have a dual voltage 200A system, I would NOT install a 12V winch on one of those vehicles and certainly not on a 60A single voltage system. The cost of a replacement regulator would pay the difference in cost of a 24V winch over a 12V, several times.

I would not run a 12V winch, that would load the regulator well beyond its ratings.

I would say if they are the correct type (uses two tabs) and it happens to line up with unused tabs, then I would reuse them, I would look very close to the used tabs and if I thought they were week I would go ahead and break them off so they would not "fall" off into the bearings. Of course I...

Now just like lug nuts I replace all the half shaft bolts and Nord lock washers on every Humvee I get, it is a good idea to inspect the flange threads as who knows what they have been through.

The STE/ICE bypasses everything, if that does not work, of course check to make sure you have 24V on M and that S has continuity to the solenoid start terminal (wire 74) If that checks out then you only have the heavy wiring from the batteries to the starter, the ground is just as important as...

Make dang sure to replace the dryer.

That would be upper case S (wire #74 to solenoid) and upper case M (24V), there are also some lower case terminals

The starter circuits are pretty much identical, have you tried jumping the pins on the STE/ICE connector? That would eliminate the neutral switch etc.

I am grateful that I blocked up the M51 bed so it would drain, the bed looks pretty good but for a few holes in the sides.

I am clearing brush to make room for some conex boxes and ran across my old M35/51, I parked it maybe 20 years ago and have not seen it in 10-15 years as it was reclaimed by the S TX brush. I carefully aired up her tires and managed to un-track her with the JD 310 backhoe. Lots of memories, when...

Same information, all they did was replace the cable with a sending unit.

No, you can start in TM 9-2320-280-20-2, 5-24. SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR MAINTENANCE and inspect if the gears are OK and if the gear is timed correctly.

It sounds like your heater water valve is not functioning

It is most likely the plastic gears in the TC, or the gear is simply not clocked correctly.

You need to update your location with at minimum the state you are in.

If there was a problem with the sensors and the TCM was healthy enough to know you would get codes. It would be interesting to disconnect the TISS, TOSS and TPS separately and see if you get any codes

So I have a 1000 miles or so on the Petlas tires and have to say I am pretty darnn happy with them, they grip very well, no more burn outs it just launches like a rocket and it turns very well

If the trans light comes on when switched to run then goes out when you start the truck then I would suggest trying another TCM, it sees the truck running but does not know it has problems.

unfortunately that is all to common aua

Kascar shows to have some 57K3515 and 5715542 in stock