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My truck came with 3d printed handles, broke the third time I used it. Truck latches also needed lube so there was extra stress. I replaced them with aluminum ones and lubed latches.
I wouldn't use 3d printed parts for this situation. Considering potential high loads, it's not their ideal use...
Wind was pushing them back, had to have my kids constantly fix them.
Looked around the hose and found some scraps that I mounted with the unused screw holes on the doors. Clamps are just standard cable guides (silicone) and the other parts are aluminum pieces I had laying around from other...
It has the bayonet plug on the top of it, also has the multiple battery shut off points (physical one beside the battery box, switch driver side kick panel, switch right side of engine bay)
Seems this had to be a modification? Wiring diagram for A1R I don't see mention of a 100amp option, only the 260. It has all the other A1R stuff (grab handles, insulation, WTEC IV, etc).
Can't find anything on here of the TMs about this (only the part breakdown)
Seems to have a fill plug so I'm guessing oil filled till comes out the hole? Any other ideas?
I was looking into this a bit, ethelyene glycol is not a great choice as it's freezing point is relatively high (would freeze in my WI weather ). Propylene glycol has a much lower freeze point. Also it's non toxic.
So I bought the truck and had some really strange wires going to the taillights, one for right turn, one for reverse. See the wire and black wires here: (also notice the black wire seems to be holding the trans cooler line :oops:
The blue circle is where the trans line was rubbing on the bolt...
I've seen some info on how to program the CTIS on YouTube and that equipment and software seems fairly easy to source. For the CAT ECM reprogramming, can that be done without having a subscription? Programming cables available?