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I used a deep impact socket since I had one. Worked fine.

Yep, I like it. I want a European siron, bee-boe bee-boe...

I'd be interested in how to do that if anyone has knowledge of the way. I'd like one isolated alt for a deep cycle set of batteries. I'd want to keep my current alternators, both being new cs140 types. As it is I always have an alternator light on. First it was the drivers, I replaced it and...

Curious, what's a Q2? A generator for power outages to supply needing locations could be a helpful thing.

I've used just rtv with success. I also like the cast iron covers, though I've only got one. I like the fill and drain locations. I think a rubber gasket would be great though.

New injection pump, hard warm starts Just wondering if that might be fixed by advancing the timing a mm? I backed it off 2mm when it was making black smoke on acceleration.

Okey, I'll bypass the cooler. Maybe plum in a separate one.

My pump has been over flowing despite repeated purging / bleeding of the system. I just replaced the pump and need to try it. I am just wondering what would cause this? I do have a screen and magnet filter in the brake return line and the steering return run through the old in radiator...

Turned it back 2mm and I have a light haze now when getting into the pedal. Good power and low egts. Seems about right.

Anyone know what thread the sensor in the front of the drivers head, above and ahead of the injector is? Tried to put a manual gauge in there and the thread was loose.

Load it up with Indian back pack pump sprayers and go find a brush fire.

The pump and injectors are in and working. Wound up needing a new glow plugs solenoid too. It's making black instead of white smoke now. Guess it needs the pump advanced?

Duly noted. I've got to have in welded after all the changes mounting the hitch.

When you add a hitch, weld it to the step bumper and add the two braces to tie the step to the pintle plate. Then you've got a bubba rope tie down and a good point for a brake safety switch cable to attach to. I like the d rings and longer chains for the safety chains. Having everything...

A pair of braces, welded from the hitch plate to the step bumper fat will help a little. A real tow hitch is best. It takes some fabrication to work around the military stuff, and you can weld them into one unit. The 1009 is not a heavy frame no matter how you try it tho.

37's on 10 bolts?, Not so much. You might on the road, not in the rough where they may stick and snap the axles. 33 inch is the upper limit.

If you do remove the glow plugs and they bind, do not force them. Remove the injector and use something to reach in and hold the glow plugs tip so when it breaks, you have it. Lastly, there is a screen inside the pump, it rarely, but can, plug.

It is a m1008.

Mine was moved back to put the front holes in line with what were the rear holes. A new driveshaft is also needed.

I've got a plow frame set aside to make a front mount.